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Dirty Diagonal

5.6, Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.4 from 45 votes
FA: unknown
New Mexico > Taos Area > Tres Piedras > Mosaic Rock
Access Issue: Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. Details

Description

A great beginner climb! This good 5.7 route isn't dirty as the name would imply. Probably the easiest route on Mosaic Rock.

Scramble up 3rd class slabs to the base of the biggest right angling crack on the south face of Mosaic Rock. Staying right of the crack on knobs and positive edges is easier than the wide crack itself. You can find pro in cracks between the flakes. [Currently there is a 2-bolt anchor at the end of the most interesting climbing, but it seems to come and go, so make sure it's there before relying on it to lower off.] For a more fun experience, continue up to the Mosaic Rock summit from here by following low angle cracks and ledges (5.2). If you summit, scramble off the east side of the formation (some 3rd class).

Location

This climb follows the big fat right-angling crack just right of the Mosaic Face, left of the Chicken Heads wall.

Protection

Nuts & cams to 3", optional larger cam

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

An unknown climber on Dirty Diagonal. She must have known I was taking her photo...this looks posed.  June 2010.
[Hide Photo] An unknown climber on Dirty Diagonal. She must have known I was taking her photo...this looks posed. June 2010.
Kristen Samet on DD<br>
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Photo courtesy of andrewburr.com. All rights reserved.
[Hide Photo] Kristen Samet on DD Photo courtesy of andrewburr.com. All rights reserved.
Dirty Diagonal in perspective
[Hide Photo] Dirty Diagonal in perspective
Jim Olsen on Dirty Diagonal
[Hide Photo] Jim Olsen on Dirty Diagonal
Dirty Diagonal visible in the middle. Climbing mostly on face right of crack. a climber also visible on Chicken Shit middle right.
[Hide Photo] Dirty Diagonal visible in the middle. Climbing mostly on face right of crack. a climber also visible on Chicken Shit middle right.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bill Lawry
Albuquerque, NM
  5.6
[Hide Comment] I think this is a great climb. Don't let the word "Dirty" in the name dissuade you from giving it a go! Jun 24, 2013
Mathias
Loveland, CO
[Hide Comment] I made the mistake of building an anchor and belaying at a ledge 10-15' below the summit instead of going all the way up. You can't walk off from that ledge. The walk off is quite obvious, but you have to summit first. May 24, 2015