[Hide Comment] I dont understand why the ratings arent better for this climb... It is long, technical, pumpy, well-bolted, all the elements of a classic climb. I think this is my favorite route at triple corners. There is a 25 foot runout between bolts 4 and 5, with about 5.3 climbing in between. I guess you could throw a sling around the tree midway if you don't feel like dying, but I'm pretty sure I encountered harder moves on the hike up.

DO THIS ROUTE!!! Jul 19, 2009

[Hide Comment] I used to put a sling on the tree sometimes, but usually not, to not get rope drag. I often thought of putting a bolt in to replace the tree. It is very easy climbing where it is run out, but it is sometimes wet and a slip could very well be deadly. What do people think of another bolt? It would mess up the count for the "dozen" name, but might be worth it. I think it and it's sister are good climbs that more people might enjoy and I don't usually like to leave big runouts.

Is it needed, or fine without another bolt that might just add drag? Jul 13, 2011

[Hide Comment] I think another bolt would be helpful for the sake of safety. It is a bit out of character at Rumney to have such a runout, and most people probably don't carry slings for the tree. It is really a great route though. Jul 13, 2011

[Hide Comment] I have done this route several times over the years and I do think it deserves 2.5 or 3 stars. The climb gets better the higher one goes but many cannot see past the manky start. I do not think the said runout is bad. I did sling the tree the 1st time up but not since. Frankly, I am more concerned climbing before the 1st bolt of Clusterphobia/Metamorphosis.
More people should get on this route. Jul 13, 2011

[Hide Comment] OK, so maybe start with a recleaning of the start and then see how it looks. Jul 13, 2011

[Hide Comment] yeah it deserves a good cleaning and more traffic! i never worried about the run out but wouldn't complain about making a route safer either... Jul 13, 2011

[Hide Comment] A short funny story - last Fall, I was warming up by Left El Diego, etc when a man walked around asking if he and his partner (now at the anchors of this route or Twleve Pack) could borrow a rappel device. I asked why and he said that the anchors are only "bolt hangers" and neither of them has a rap device (they both have Gri-Gri). So I gave him my ATC to use. But I did not have the heart to tell him they are many more routes at Rumney that require a rap (no q-links or beefy chains). So they might had to do more borrowing later that day!

Mark, do you happen to remember if this route or Twelve Pack only have Metolius Rap Anchors (and no quick links)? I do not recall.
I did however tell him that the "bolt hangers" are very likely Metolius Rap Anchors and are perfectly fine to rap from. Jan 12, 2012

[Hide Comment] I don't know nowadays, Soon. I don't like those Metolius rap hangers at all, but these were two of my earlier routes at Rumney, before I started using glue-ins, and all I had. They should ideally have a pair of 1/2" quicklinks on each hanger. The Metolius hangers are safe, but are kind of hard on your rope and make it tough to pull. At least the guys in your story didn't rap off the tiny tree above like I saw some tradsters do once. I seem to remember Twelve Pack always having regular hangers and quicklinks or biners. Jan 12, 2012

[Hide Comment] I thought this route was REALLY GOOD. Challenging mentally and physically because ALL THE HOLDS FACE THE WRONG WAY. Loved it! Nov 23, 2012

[Hide Comment] Dirty Dozen has the rap hangers, Twelve Pack has rap rings or quick links. I donated two biners to lower off Dirty Dozen. Dirty Dozen is SWEET. Kneebars, finger jams, awkward wrestling with blocky prows, and an exciting, somewhat insecure series of sidepull liebacks to the anchors. Loved it. Apr 29, 2013

[Hide Comment] Had a great time on this line - interesting moves all the way. Climb this route Jun 24, 2014

[Hide Comment] As others have said, this route is really a blast. It looks like it's getting more traffic and the bottom is a bit cleaner. I used two underclings through the crux that I didn't use the first time on it. Super fun. Oct 6, 2015

[Hide Comment] Ian and I climbed this route after it had rained the night before. Be aware that, when wet, the dank, mossy start becomes slick and greasy. Sport climbing excitement! But the upper part of the route is great. Aug 12, 2016

[Hide Comment] One of my new favorite routes at Rumney, once you're into the tougher moves at the top there's no stopping for quite some time but the bolts aren't difficult to clip. A good 10d for a shorter person because of the wide variety of options for holds within the immediate vicinity. Don't be deterred by the cobwebs on the first 3-4 bolts, the cruxy middle section stays quite clean. Aug 22, 2022