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Seppuku
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 5
votes
Routes in Blood Wall
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Bad Blood T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V4-5 6B+ |
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Blood Meridian T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bloodbath T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bush League T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack McMuffin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Glass Half Full, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Impulse T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Main Vein, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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OW Negative T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2+ |
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Seppuku T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Slow Bleed T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Transfusion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Venipuncture T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Karsten Duncan, Andrew Gomoll -Sept 12, 2006 |
| Page Views: | 4,339 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Karsten Duncan on Sep 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This striking route lies high on the blood wall and provides great views of the eagle wall, black orpheus, and solar slab. The rock is superb, position spectacular, and the climbing fun. Protection is plentiful but the pitches are long.
P1: 5.11a/b The route starts in a bomb bay Chimney. Climb the chimney and pull the lip of a small roof and follow the crack through the mixture of hands, fingers, offwidth and face moves to gain the easier OW/Squeeze. Continue up the widening chimney until about 20ft below the roof (where the crack snakes left). At this point exit the crack by moving out left (watch rope drag) onto a scooped dish until directly under where the crack above turns back vertical. Climb straight up to regain the crack on face holds to a stance. (5.10+) Belay in a corner at a small ledge on fixed nuts or finger size cams. The crux of this pitch has a height dependent element. (55m)
P2: 5.8+ Head up and left following the crack. Continue left at a pseudo junction in the crack with a right variation. When the crack runs out, traverse right on the lower angled face to a ledge with a large slung chock stone.
P3: 5.9 Traverse right again for 20m to gain a chimney that quickly becomes a handcrack. Continue up cracks to a ledge with another chockstone with slings at the top of the formation.(60m)
P1: 5.11a/b The route starts in a bomb bay Chimney. Climb the chimney and pull the lip of a small roof and follow the crack through the mixture of hands, fingers, offwidth and face moves to gain the easier OW/Squeeze. Continue up the widening chimney until about 20ft below the roof (where the crack snakes left). At this point exit the crack by moving out left (watch rope drag) onto a scooped dish until directly under where the crack above turns back vertical. Climb straight up to regain the crack on face holds to a stance. (5.10+) Belay in a corner at a small ledge on fixed nuts or finger size cams. The crux of this pitch has a height dependent element. (55m)
P2: 5.8+ Head up and left following the crack. Continue left at a pseudo junction in the crack with a right variation. When the crack runs out, traverse right on the lower angled face to a ledge with a large slung chock stone.
P3: 5.9 Traverse right again for 20m to gain a chimney that quickly becomes a handcrack. Continue up cracks to a ledge with another chockstone with slings at the top of the formation.(60m)
- No bolts, two fixed nuts used for rappel of first pitch
Location
Hike past the blood wall in the gulley and take easier slabs cutting back (east) diagonally up to reach the upper tier. A large red north facing wall can be seen with a striking crack with a kink in it. This is Seppuku.
Descent:
The route can be rapped off of webbing slung blocks with two 60m ropes or . . .continue up a right slanting finger crack on the white rock face (50ft). From there 3rd class up to the top of the formation. Walk right (west) staying close to the ridge and follow a cairned branch whitney style descent off the back of the formation.
Descent:
The route can be rapped off of webbing slung blocks with two 60m ropes or . . .continue up a right slanting finger crack on the white rock face (50ft). From there 3rd class up to the top of the formation. Walk right (west) staying close to the ridge and follow a cairned branch whitney style descent off the back of the formation.
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