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Routes in Creekside

Creekside Cruise T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Curtain Call T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Liquid Therapy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Local Hero T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Los Pinos (The Pines) T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Spirit on the Water T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 460 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Bob D'Antonio, Ron Olsen, Ken Cangi, and Kelly Baldwin, 9/1/07
Page Views: 2,760 total, 22/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Sep 21, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

Los Pinos (The Pines) is the longest route at Tonnere Tower, and perhaps the longest route in Boulder Canyon, climbing more than 450' from the creek to the summit in four or five pitches. The first two pitches have bolt anchors, and can be climbed and rappelled back to the start if you don't want to go all the way to the top.

The second pitch is a neat finger crack with tiny pine trees in it; it's the best pitch on the route. The pitches above are adventure climbing; little cleaning has been done. Expect lichen and vegetation, and watch out for loose rock.

For a fun outing: Do the first two pitches of Spirit on the Water and the second pitch of Los Pinos, and rap off. These are the three best pitches in this area.

Start at the alcove by the creek where Spirit on the Water begins. This is about 50' upstream from where the rock wall first meets the creek.

P1: Climb up the right side of the alcove heading for a little roof with cracks on either side. Continue straight up the cracks and face, and merge with Spirit on the Water at its last bolt. Continue up and right to a 2-bolt anchor, shared with Spirit on the Water. 5.8, 85'.

P2: Go to the right side of the slab, and climb a thin crack that angles up and right, past several tiny pine trees. 3 bolts and some small cams (green and yellow Aliens) protect the crack. Continue up to a steep headwall. Clip another bolt and crank up to a ledge. Continue up to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks, shared with Spirit on the Water. This is the best pitch on the route. 5.9, 70'.

If you're just doing the first two pitches, lower from here to the anchor atop P1, then rappel 85' back to the start. Try to keep the rope out of the water when you pull it.

If you want to continue on to the summit:

P3: Climb moderate cracks to a ledge with a pine tree. 5.5, 65'. P2 and P3 can easily be combined.

P4: Angle up and left to a buttress with hand cracks. Climb the buttress and watch out for loose rock. Continue up moderate blocky ground to a ledge with a pine tree. 5.6, 110'.

P5: Move left up a buttress and climb a hand crack on its right side. Pass a pine tree on the right, and climb up onto blocks at a steep headwall. Climb handcracks in the headwall to the summit area. Belay from a 15'-tall pine tree. 5.6, 130'.

Descent: Go south to a notch at the back of the tower, and descend to the east (left).

Location

At a natural tub, about 50' upstream from the base area at Creekside. Same starting spot as Spirit on the Water.

This route is accessible only when the creek water level is low (late summer to mid-spring).

Protection

P1: 1 bolt and gear to a #2 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor shared with Spirit on the Water.
P2: 4 bolts and gear to a #.75 Camalot. 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks shared with Spirit on the Water.
P3-P5: gear to a #3 Camalot. Tree anchors.

Photos

Nick Wilder
The Bubble
 
Nick Wilder   The Bubble  
 
The first two pitches are fun. The upper pitches are pretty lousy, and only worthwhile if you want a tiny adventure. Oct 26, 2014
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9-
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9-
P2, following a crack in the slab, is good climbing but its atmosphere is spoilt a bit by the nearby tree-infested gully on the right. Oct 14, 2011