Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Thomas Lund, Mike Johnson, 1989
Page Views: 276 total · 2/month
Shared By: Brandon Schirm on Sep 20, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

A little runout, this climbs the wall directly beneath a juniper tree and right of a wide crack. The crux is a little spicy with a bolt at your feet, but shake out on a good foot and hand. Then do a sidestep to a jug.

Location

This is beyond the Future Wall next to The Lesser Of Two Evils.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Chris Perkins
Buena Vista, Colorado
  5.10b/c
Chris Perkins   Buena Vista, Colorado
  5.10b/c
This route should be avoided. Sling anchor on weak tree, no rings or biners. Apr 12, 2012
slim

  5.10b/c
slim    
  5.10b/c
The last time I looked at this route, it appeared that the first hanger had been flattened. I agree, not the best route at Shelf. Apr 13, 2012
Dustin Clelen
Boulder, CO
 
Dustin Clelen   Boulder, CO
 
Consider this post a "like" of the two posts above. Weird, poorly protected climbing on chossy rock (up high) with no anchor except for a dead juniper. There are much better routes at Shelf at this grade. Jan 7, 2013
Jason Young
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9+
Jason Young   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9+
The bolt with the smashed hanger was chopped and completely replaced on 11/09/2013. All other hangers were replaced and new bolted anchors were installed. Nov 16, 2013
Nate Reno
Highlands Ranch, CO
 
Nate Reno   Highlands Ranch, CO
 
Poorly bolted. Still not worth doing even after proper anchors have been installed. Dec 30, 2017