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Routes in Solaris

Contact S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cosmic Explorer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Crumbs T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Don't Get Me Started S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Harvest Moon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Kundalini Express T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leftovers T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Luminosity, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mephistophiles T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mission To Mars T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Place In the Universe T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Party On T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Way, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Start Me Up S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stellar Drifter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tower of Power S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twilight Zone S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: T. Bubb, J Bargo, 9/19/07
Page Views: 128 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 19, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

A short interesting section of climbing with more rock on either end of it. The route is basically uncleaned, as it was done ground up, on-sight on FA.

Stand up on a 1/2 buried flake to reach up under a small roof and place a 2-2.5" cam overhead. Jam and pull the first roof (5.8+) and continue up and left to a second roof, which is much larger. Protect under that roof on small cams (0.5, 0.75) on a long sling and pull up and left through the roof at its widest point. Very large holds make this easy enough. Place a 2-2.5" cam and pull over the roof with awkward feet and get established above (crux, 5.10- ???) and climb easier terrian with reasonable pro to a tree with a sling which resides directly above on the large, rocky ledge. The sling has no link on it as of now, and the ledge needs cleaned of loose rock when nobody is around.

Location

Just left of the gully for Mephistophiles and Twilight Zone, there is a tall section of wall with a tree growing very close to it. Just left of the tree, near the arete at the entrance of the gully, there is a sharp flake sticking out of the ground next to the cliff, with the upward edge "painted" white. Above this lies a double set of roofs. The climb 'Party On' climbs up left of the first roof (yellow Camalot and handjam to pull it) and then up and left through the second roof (get horizontal and grab the huge holds) for the crux. From there, easier climbing takes you to a loose rocky ledge and the top, where a large tree with a sling marks the top.

Protection

A light rack to 3.5" Crux pro is .5-.75" cams under the large roof.

Photos

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