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Weevil Knievil

5.12a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 142 votes
FA: Mark Sprague 11/98
New Hampshire > Rumney > New Wave
Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area DetailsDrop down

Description

A fun and somewhat varied route. There is a boulder problem crux and a pump crux. The rock is interesting with quartz deposits making for some cool moves.

Climb the first moderate boulder problem off the ground to a nice rest before the crux bulge (its only 10 feet up but I never refuse a rest when offered one). Head up and left on jugs till they run out, clip a bolts and head up in to the business. Most people favor a sneaky undercling to gain a good right hand to get situated on the steeps. A few more powerful moves get you to a mid way ledge. Milk the rest and work your way up the corner above laying back and making some sequency moves to gain the slightly sloping lip (this might be tough if you are pumped). Find the good holds and clip the chains. Topping out is fun and sometimes easier than hanging to clip.

This might be a good 5.12 to do as your first if it fits your style. Its not hard in the grade but definitely 5.12.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKLxhsm5-U0

Location

Middle left end of the cliff just right of the corner of barking spiders (5.11c)

Protection

8 bolts to chains with fixed lower biners...

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Alexandre Rivest high on Weevil Knievil
[Hide Photo] Alexandre Rivest high on Weevil Knievil
A- Air and Pleasant Danger 5.8<br>
B- Short Wave 5.11b<br>
C- Barking Spiders 5.11c<br>
D- Weevil Knevil 5.12a<br>
E- Roaring Silence 5.13b<br>
F- Salley's Alley 5.11c<br>
G- Black Dog Crack 5.10b<br>
H- Vallee Daze 5.12a
[Hide Photo] A- Air and Pleasant Danger 5.8 B- Short Wave 5.11b C- Barking Spiders 5.11c D- Weevil Knevil 5.12a E- Roaring Silence 5.13b F- Salley's Alley 5.11c G- Black Dog Crack 5.10b H- Vallee Daze 5.12a
The midway rest ledge, Anyone who knows this route will know this spot well, Eli Buzzell
[Hide Photo] The midway rest ledge, Anyone who knows this route will know this spot well, Eli Buzzell
Eli about to top out
[Hide Photo] Eli about to top out
Eli Buzzel on his send
[Hide Photo] Eli Buzzel on his send
Eli finishing up the first bulge crux... <br>
Note: the nice incut in his right hand seemed to creak a little... be gentle...
[Hide Photo] Eli finishing up the first bulge crux... Note: the nice incut in his right hand seemed to creak a little... be gentle...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
 
[Hide Comment] It's also fun to start on Barking Spiders and then head right to finish on Weevil. This avoids Weevil's bulge crux but allows you to do the upper headwall. Mar 25, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
[Hide Comment] oh! oh! oh! could we call it the barking weevil :) Mar 26, 2009
anna.gutwin
Burlington, VT
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] On the lower crux a left hand undercling helped gain the good right hold without needing to use the crappy crimp/pinch. I'm 5'6" and it was a doable reach for me. Jul 20, 2014
S. Neoh
 
[Hide Comment] Agreed. I am 5'5" and I make the reach readily with the left hand undercling and a high right foot. The end is the business IMHO. Jul 20, 2014
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] after teaching my clinics at the Rumney Rendezvous this past Saturday I grabbed a quick run on Weevil Knevil... good times!
youtube.com/watch?v=qKLxhsm… Sep 11, 2016
Lucien Christie
Boston, MA
[Hide Comment] the chalked up right hand ball below the chains is a lie! Oct 18, 2021
Azad Jalali
Somerville, MA
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I must have been doing something wrong... 5'6" with positive ape index and couldn't make the left hand undercling->good right hand work. Observed the same with two similarly proportioned individuals. Maybe we lacked the strength to get fully engaged into it?

Alternate shorty beta that was tension-y but not very strenuous: the crappy pinch can be used as a pretty good left hand side-pull. Lock off with tension supplied by a high right foot and you can static to the good right hold.

And +1 for topping out to clip anchors. Feels awesome and I personally found it less heady than clipping from the hang while pumped. There's even a bolt up there past the anchor if you're nervous about getting situated above the anchor. Oct 10, 2023