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Weevil Knievil
5.12a,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.7 from 142
votes
FA: Mark Sprague 11/98
New Hampshire
> Rumney
> New Wave
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area
Details
Description
A fun and somewhat varied route. There is a boulder problem crux and a pump crux. The rock is interesting with quartz deposits making for some cool moves.
Climb the first moderate boulder problem off the ground to a nice rest before the crux bulge (its only 10 feet up but I never refuse a rest when offered one). Head up and left on jugs till they run out, clip a bolts and head up in to the business. Most people favor a sneaky undercling to gain a good right hand to get situated on the steeps. A few more powerful moves get you to a mid way ledge. Milk the rest and work your way up the corner above laying back and making some sequency moves to gain the slightly sloping lip (this might be tough if you are pumped). Find the good holds and clip the chains. Topping out is fun and sometimes easier than hanging to clip.
This might be a good 5.12 to do as your first if it fits your style. Its not hard in the grade but definitely 5.12.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKLxhsm5-U0
Location
Middle left end of the cliff just right of the corner of barking spiders (5.11c)
Protection
8 bolts to chains with fixed lower biners...
[Hide Photo] Alexandre Rivest high on Weevil Knievil
[Hide Photo] A- Air and Pleasant Danger 5.8 B- Short Wave 5.11b C- Barking Spiders 5.11c D- Weevil Knevil 5.12a E- Roaring Silence 5.13b F- Salley's Alley 5.11c G- Black Dog Crack 5.10b H- Vallee Daze 5.12a
[Hide Photo] The midway rest ledge, Anyone who knows this route will know this spot well, Eli Buzzell
[Hide Photo] Eli about to top out
[Hide Photo] Eli Buzzel on his send
[Hide Photo] Eli finishing up the first bulge crux... Note: the nice incut in his right hand seemed to creak a little... be gentle...
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
Manchester NH
Burlington, VT
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
youtube.com/watch?v=qKLxhsm… Sep 11, 2016
Boston, MA
Somerville, MA
Alternate shorty beta that was tension-y but not very strenuous: the crappy pinch can be used as a pretty good left hand side-pull. Lock off with tension supplied by a high right foot and you can static to the good right hold.
And +1 for topping out to clip anchors. Feels awesome and I personally found it less heady than clipping from the hang while pumped. There's even a bolt up there past the anchor if you're nervous about getting situated above the anchor. Oct 10, 2023