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Routes in New Wave

Air and Pleasant Danger S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Barking Spiders S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Dog Crack S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Daytripper, The S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daze of Dark Scrutiny S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Night Crawler S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paradox S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Retrospade S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Roaring Silence S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Salley's Alley S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sam Spade T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Schist Another Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schist Another Sport Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short Wave S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smokestack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strict Scrutiny S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Ten of Spades S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vallee Daze S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Weevil Knevil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark Sprague 11/98
Page Views: 3,003 total · 24/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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Note: New route moratorium area Details


A fun and somewhat varied route. There is a boulder problem crux and a pump crux. The rock is interesting with quarts deposits making for some cool moves.

Climb the first moderate boulder problem off the ground to a nice rest before the crux bulge (its only 10 feet up but I never refuse a rest when offered one). Head up and left on jugs till they run out, clip a bolts and head up in to the business. Most people favor a sneaky undercling to gain a good right hand to get situated on the steeps. A few more powerful moves get you to a mid way ledge. Milk the rest and work your way up the corner above laying back and making some sequency moves to gain the slightly sloping lip (this might be tough if you are pumped). Find the good holds and clip the chains. Topping out is fun and sometimes easier than hanging to clip.

This might be a good 5.12 to do as your first if it fits your style. Its not hard in the grade but definitely 5.12.


Middle left end of the cliff just right of the corner of barking spiders (5.11c)


8 bolts to chains with fixed lower biners...


lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
after teaching my clinics at the Rumney Rendezvous this past Saturday I grabbed a quick run on Weevil Knevil... good times!… Sep 11, 2016
Eli   GMC3500
Top out to the left of the anchors. Oct 5, 2015
Ian Grant
Ian Grant   Cambridge
Fun! These folks with the undercling beta are wizards, I think. The low boulder felt like the crux for me. Found a semi-solid heel-toe cam that helped with the right hand reach to the crimp. V4 to no-hands to 5.11c. Top it out! May 1, 2015
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
Agreed. I am 5'5" and I make the reach readily with the left hand undercling and a high right foot. The end is the business IMHO. Jul 20, 2014
Burlington, VT
anna.gutwin   Burlington, VT
On the lower crux a left hand undercling helped gain the good right hold without needing to use the crappy crimp/pinch. I'm 5'6" and it was a doable reach for me. Jul 20, 2014
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
oh! oh! oh! could we call it the barking weevil :) Mar 26, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
It's also fun to start on Barking Spiders and then head right to finish on Weevil. This avoids Weevil's bulge crux but allows you to do the upper headwall. Mar 25, 2009