Double Sidewinder Splitter
Avg: 1.8 from 4 votes
Routes in Second Tunnel
|All That Glitters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Banzai S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Double Sidewinder Splitter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Judge Dread T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Out of the Shadows S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Sierra Corazon S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Soylent Green S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|XXX S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Marc Beverly, Ian McMillan|
|Page Views:||764 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Sep 18, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionPitch 1: Head up the left side of the Sierra Corazon slab. Most of this is really easy but a lieback section near the top of this requires committing 5.7 moves, protectable with large cams. Straight up after this move, and you'll reach a 3-bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: Move left and go straight up past 4 bolts to the steep headwall with the double finger cracks. These take small cams and painful finger jams. It's fun stemming between the cracks to a 2-bolt anchor. You can plug in as much gear as you need in this crux section, especially finger size cams, but if you place gear in both cracks, use long runners to alleviate rope drag. This felt like hard 5.10 to me, but the gear is excellent. If you don't like pain or don't have good technique, the left-facing dihedral right of the 2 splitter cracks is easier (5.8 or 5.9), and will also reach the chains. (This right variation ("Bull Snake") was climbed by Mark Mathis on TR in 7/07, led by Matt Price subsequently, but certainly someone could've climbed it earlier.) Both choices are still a little loose in the headwall section, but it'll clean up with traffic.
LocationThe climb ascends the left edge of the Sierra Corazon slab in the 2nd Tunnel area, then goes straight up on Pitch 2.
Rap the route by 2 rappels w/ a single 60m rope (or one rappel with 2 ropes).