Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches
FA: Marc Beverly, Ian McMillan
Page Views: 1,367 total · 7/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Sep 18, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


5 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Pitch 1: Head up the left side of the Sierra Corazon slab. Most of this is really easy but a lieback section near the top of this requires committing 5.7 moves, protectable with large cams. Straight up after this move, and you'll reach a 3-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: Move left and go straight up past 4 bolts to the steep headwall with the double finger cracks. These take small cams and painful finger jams. It's fun stemming between the cracks to a 2-bolt anchor. You can plug in as much gear as you need in this crux section, especially finger size cams, but if you place gear in both cracks, use long runners to alleviate rope drag. This felt like hard 5.10 to me, but the gear is excellent. If you don't like pain or don't have good technique, the left-facing dihedral right of the 2 splitter cracks is easier (5.8 or 5.9), and will also reach the chains. (This right variation ("Bull Snake") was climbed by Mark Mathis on TR in 7/07, led by Matt Price subsequently, but certainly someone could've climbed it earlier.) Both choices are still a little loose in the headwall section, but it'll clean up with traffic.

Location Suggest change

The climb ascends the left edge of the Sierra Corazon slab in the 2nd Tunnel area, then goes straight up on Pitch 2.
Rap the route by 2 rappels w/ a single 60m rope (or one rappel with 2 ropes).

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack from 0.5" to 3". 4 bolts.

2-bolt anchors at the first belay and at the top are equipped with chains for rappelling.

Photos

loading