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Judge Dread

5.8, Trad, 199 ft (60 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 1.6 from 5 votes
FA: Marc Beverly
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Gilman Tunnels > Second Tunnel

Description

A 2-pitch route with a good crack first pitch and an fun airy bolted 2nd pitch.

Pitch 1: (5.8 trad) Climb up easy ground, place a 3" cam, hand traverse left to the open book. This corner has fun thin hand cracks with some blocky terrain and rubble at its top. Belay at the 2-bolt anchor. Ditch the rack on the anchor.

Pitch 2: (5.8 sport, 8 bolts) Fun face climbing right of the arete. This pitch has great exposure high above the roaring river.

Location

Just past the 2nd tunnel on the left side. Look for the open book first pitch. Start just left of Banzai.

Descent: Rap twice with a single 60m rope, or one 60m double rope rappel to the dirt.

Protection

Cams 0.5" to 3" for the 1st pitch only.
2-bolt anchors at the 1st and 2nd belays, both are equipped for rappelling.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

In the middle section of the first pitch of Judge Dread.
[Hide Photo] In the middle section of the first pitch of Judge Dread.
Looking up the second pitch of Judge Dread.  The crux of the pitch for us was right off the belay.
[Hide Photo] Looking up the second pitch of Judge Dread. The crux of the pitch for us was right off the belay.
Near the top of the first pitch one can move left to the arete for a cleaner, more enjoyable finish rather than going through to bushy, blocky section directly above the dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Near the top of the first pitch one can move left to the arete for a cleaner, more enjoyable finish rather than going through to bushy, blocky section directly above the dihedral.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] This is a fun climb mixing up the trad and sport disciplines. The first pitch (gear pitch) felt no harder than 5.8 and protected well with medium cams (.75, 1 and 2 BDs). The second pitch is enjoyable, well-protected face climbing on small edges. Nov 4, 2007
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Tread lightly on this one. One of my partners pulled holds off of both the first and second pitches.
Which, given the climb's position above the road, could be ugly. The softball-sized rock that came off the second pitch actually bounced off the 1st belay ledge and then hit the road, about only a minute after a shiny new Jeep had driven by.... Feb 23, 2009