Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

White Corner

5.10a, Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches,  Avg: 2.8 from 13 votes
FA: Ralph Fickel, Jeep Barrett, 1982
N Carolina > Linville Gorge > Shortoff Mountain
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details
Access Issue: All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. Details

Description

Great mix of stemming, jamming, and jug pulling. NOTE: The route length includes the approach pitch (whichever you choose) to get to the Corner, which begins about 100' up the wall.
P1: Climb either White Russians Gone Bananas (11a) or Early Times (9) to access the corner. 100'
P2: Stem, jam, and pull your way through the corner, eventually exiting to the right below a roof. Belay shortly after moving out of the corner. NOTE: There is a variation, Sword of the Lord, that takes off to the left somewhere up here. It's described in the book, but I haven't done it. 10a, 60'.
P3: Pull a steep roof just above the belay and continue up lower and lower angle terrain. Set a belay when it's convenient. 5.9, 150'.

Location

Locate the very large left-facing corner directly above White Russians Gone Bananas, about 100' up.

Protection

Standard Shortoff rack (set of stoppers, doubles from blue TCU-#1 camalot, 1 #2)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pierre finishing up White Corner
[Hide Photo] Pierre finishing up White Corner
View of Tim belaying below the White Corner. Photo taken from the "Sword of the Lord" Varation. Just after the bolt. on a nice no hands rest ledge.
[Hide Photo] View of Tim belaying below the White Corner. Photo taken from the "Sword of the Lord" Varation. Just after the bolt. on a nice no hands rest ledge.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
[Hide Comment] It is much better to do this route by linking the "White Corner" with the first section of "Sword Of The Lord". Climb the corner to the end. Instead of belaying here, do a short traverse out left under the roof past a good #3 camelot and onto "Sword Of The Lord". Climb up to bolt at the first opportunity, then continue up HUGE holds to a good ledge for a nice comfy belay. Sword Of The Lord is a very tame 10a, as is White Corner. Jan 4, 2008
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
[Hide Comment] Good but short. I definitely recommended the same linkup as Nathan. If you belay below White Corner, you can stretch the rope all the way up to a pine tree and then just scramble off making the entire climb only 2 pitches. Combined with all three of the routes, the overall route is three stars. Oct 10, 2011
Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
[Hide Comment] Re-iterating what Nbrown and TomCaldwell stated. If you are doing the “Sword of the Lord Variation” (which you should), Link it as 1 pitch with White Corner.

We took Early Times approach and it’s not bad. It is just some lichen gardening since it doesn't get much traffic. It'll get better as it would clean up, (there is 1 sketchy flake to be mindful of.)

At the top of the White corner, I didn't find the #3 spot before the bolt (Thinking back, I may have traverse below it), but there is a small pod where Purple 0 TCU went perfectly. I did like having a #3 for above the bolt too, it fit nicely in the giant slot.

After hitting the ledge and we belayed there. It was 1 more pitch of Shortoff jug scrambling to the top. Dec 7, 2015