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Routes in Peeler Face

Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T WI5 M6 R
Birthday Route T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Mamba T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Black Peeler T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3- PG13
Ezra The Catamite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Golden Eye T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Hell Broke Luce T A2+
Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nazi Love Slaves T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0
Orangutan Afternoon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peeler Direct C2
Riveting C0
Serpent, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A3
Skin Man T A3
Stag Party T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Tin Man T A3
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Chris Thomas, Rick Vance, and Jess Taverna 6/07
Page Views: 7,732 total · 57/month
Shared By: christ on Sep 18, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: On private land. Details
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, .12c, 4 pitches. First Ascent: Chris Thomas, Rick Vance, and Jess Taverna, June, 2007

The Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route was named in honor of our good friends Brian Postlethwait and Andre Callari, who were killed while climbing in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska in May, 2007. Brian and Andre were two of the most badass climbers, skiers/snowboarders, pilots, adventurers, husbands, brothers, sons and friends that ever lived, and this is part of our tribute to the amazing people that they were.

Pitch one: Climb the first pitch of Orangutan Afternoon. Climb the large right facing corner until it ends, and then step across to a ledge with chains. 5.10. ~ 100 feet

Pitch two: Traverse left from the belay and pull around a small roof to gain a left facing corner. It is possible to escape right after just a few feet of the corner, but for better quality climbing continue up the corner to an under cling flake and the short bouldery crux of the pitch. 5.10c. ~ 80 feet

Pitch three: The money pitch. Climb the striking, overhanging, flake/crack up the orange and black streaked wall. This pitch starts hard and keeps coming at you until the end. 5.12c. ~ 80 feet

Pitch four: Move the belay to the base of the overhanging finger crack. Lieback, jam, thrutch, and curse your way up the steep tips crack. At the roof, go left. A #4 Camalot is nice here. Belay anchors are up and to the right on a ramp. 5.11c. ~50 feet. (Note: we believe that this pitch has been aid climbed before, but never freed. The base of it is accessible from the top of the Peeler Direct Route)

Alternative to Pitch Four: Scramble up the low angled ramp from the base of the .11c variation and climb a very high quality 5.8 hand crack to the anchors.

Descend with one 70 meter rope. Skip the rappel anchor at the base of the 3rd pitch and go all the way to the top of the first pitch. A 60 meter rope is workable with some trickery.

Location

How to find it: In Little Cottonwood Canyon, on the Black Peeler Buttress. Park 1.75 miles up canyon from the neon sign at the mouth, in the same pull out as for the Great White Icicle. Cross the highway, and hike up the closed road to the first major switchback. From here follow the steep climbers trail (marked by cairns) to the base of the cliff. The first pitch starts about 100 yards right of the prominent Peeler Direct Route. See photo.

Protection

Rack: Double set of cams from a #00 C3 to a #1 Camalot. 1 each #2, #3, #4 Camalot. All Belays are bolted.
It's a beautiful line with some of the best climbing in the canyon. It's burly, too. Great job, that's a nice way to honor their memory. Sep 18, 2007
Nice job! We looked at that line quite a bit while equipping and working on Golden Eye. We were up there a lot in the winter though, so it always had ice on it. I never gave it a closer look and had no idea there would be three new pitches, that is great! I only saw the yellowish crack looking straight up from the belay at the bottom of Golden Eye. Again, great job and thanks for all the cleaning effort! Sep 20, 2007
bheller
SL UT
  5.12c
bheller   SL UT
  5.12c
Wow, such good climbing on the money pitch- one of my favorites in the canyon. Quality. Thanks for the gift. Nov 19, 2007
Evan Stevens
  5.12c
Evan Stevens  
  5.12c
Great Route...watch for Poison Ivy at the start of the crux. 2nd pitch is a little spicy and sandbagged...bust some crux moves over your gear and don't fall, watch the kitty litter, 10++. May 20, 2008

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