Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||James Garrett and Jim Howe, 24 March 1998 , started with Dave the previous Fall|
|Page Views:||2,017 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||James Garrett on Sep 17, 2007|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
We climbed two of the pitches that day and were a bit chased off due to impending darkness and windy cold weather. Nevertheless, we had a great adventure. The unfinished route (with the two pitches) made its way into the Ruckman guide that was published in the Spring of 1998. It was called El Viento Es Frio (Spanish for "the wind is cold"....which Dave and I had decided to call the climb after shivering in that November snowstorm.
Dave was later tragically killed while being rescued after suffering from serious injuries in an avalanche while skiing in Pink Pine in January 1998. The AirMed helicopter crashed and all perished. Jim Howe, another friend of Dave's and mine, thought it a nice idea to finish it and give it the new name. Ironically, after doing this climb together, Jim and I went on to work as Flight Nurses later for AirMed.
I don't know if it has been repeated so the details seem vague now. But it is easy to find.
After gaining the base of the Buttress, trend east and up around the corner. This climbs the multiple massive roofs up the impressive East Face.
Pitch #1: Ascend a right facing dihedral with a good steep crack to a sloping belay stance. 5.8
Pitch #2: The dihedral turns into some thin nailing through a roof and traverses out right to a two bolt belay under a series of roofs. (Dave always thought this would go free someday, probably by him!...we were shivering at this point.) A1-A2.
Pitch #3: A few bolts assault the steep overlap above the belay to another crack that diagonals right and up. 5.8, A1.
Pitch #4: Continue up some more mixed climbing to another two-bolt belay and rappel station. 5.?
Rappel the route.