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Routes in Lower Bulge Buttress

Cause for Alarm T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Le Toit Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapstick S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Standup Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,713 total, 14/month
Shared By: Jeff S on Sep 17, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A steep lie back gets your attention just off the belay; this is most likely the crux of the climb. The climb protects well, but can be a little pumpy at the start; so move quickly to avoid landing on your belayer.

Location

This is a large obvious flake that runs right through the center of the Lower Bulge Buttress. It is 165 feet to the top and can also be a good first pitch to get to the start of Super Pooper, The Step or The Flakes.

Protection

Small to three inch camalots will do the trick. The large pine tree on top of the buttress works well for an anchor, but can be full of sap; consider building an anchor just past the tree.

Photos

tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
Just below where this flake starts is a steep left facing 16 foot high wall, which has a perfect 2 inch crack, approx. 10b, which is a great way to get to the Standup Flake. Jul 25, 2015
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
  5.9+
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
  5.9+
Decent climb, not really worth the approach in my opinion. There were some fun moves. Felt hard to me when compared to other local 5.9s. Could be due to the incredible wind and cold when I did it.

The approach involves a couple hundred feet of 3rd/4th class in a pretty dangerous location if any rocks were to fall from above. Oct 27, 2013
Keane Anderson  
  5.9
This was my first climb at Tahquitz and boy was I scared (in a good way). I rapped from the tree anchor with my 70m rope with a few feet to spare on each end. It's a worthy single pitch. Jul 10, 2013
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
A great way to start any of the upper routes and a 60m rope gets you to the base of either Super Pooper or The Step in 1 pitch, avoiding the sappy tree. Jun 11, 2012