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Feeding the Rat - Part II
5.9-,
Trad, 670 ft (203 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
FA: Paul Ross, John Glime, Sept 15/2007
Utah
> S Central Utah
> San Rafael Swell
> San Rafael Swel…
> Eastern Reef Ar…
> J Crags
Description
The climb starts on the inner right (north) side of the impressive Bongo Canyon . The Route takes the slab ramp that leads to a long crack system of perfect rock that forms the top two pitches. Classic for the area.
(P1. Climb onto the slab trending up to the left past two bolts and a #3 friend placement to a flake/crack and good ledge. Double anchors. 130' 5.8
(P2. Climb up to the right of the ledge then head up leftwards passed a thin flake to a bolt .Move right from the bolt ,then back left to double anchors below the crack/corner. 190'5.9-
(P3 Follow superb crack system on excellent rock to double anchors. 200' 5.5-. (P4. More crack to a fine summit. 150' 5.5-.
Descent:- Rap the route.
Location
North side of Bongo Canyon. This is a large amphitheater located about 20 mins walk south of the Univa trail head. It has very dark rock on its steep south side ,were the route 5.12 route Silver Lining is located.
Protection
Cams 1/2" to 3.5 Friends ,stoppers Two 60m ropes
[Hide Photo] Slightly wider view of the starting pitch.
[Hide Photo] (A)Heart of Stone 5.7+. (B)Aguille Du Tangelo.5.4R.(C)Feeding the Rat.5.9-R.
[Hide Photo] Swell swimming pool
[Hide Photo] John on the summit with the dark wall down to the right of the 5.12 route Silver Lining
[Hide Photo] Paul starting the 150' pitch 4
[Hide Photo] John topping out pitch 3 . Looking down on the canyon pools 500' below.
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