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Routes in J Crags

Aguille Du Tangelo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Bottle Tester, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Dread Naught T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feeding the Rat - Part II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hunter, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Milwaukee's Best S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rabbits Trod. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Silver Lining T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Sunshine Slab. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Velnio Akmuo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
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Type: Trad, 670 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Ross, John Glime, Sept 15/2007
Page Views: 1,613 total · 12/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Sep 17, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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The climb starts on the inner right (north) side of the impressive Bongo Canyon . The Route takes the slab ramp that leads to a long crack system of perfect rock that forms the top two pitches. Classic for the area.

(P1. Climb onto the slab trending up to the left past two bolts and a #3 friend placement to a flake/crack and good ledge. Double anchors. 130' 5.8
(P2. Climb up to the right of the ledge then head up leftwards passed a thin flake to a bolt .Move right from the bolt ,then back left to double anchors below the crack/corner. 190'5.9-
(P3 Follow superb crack system on excellent rock to double anchors. 200' 5.5-. (P4. More crack to a fine summit. 150' 5.5-.

Descent:- Rap the route.


North side of Bongo Canyon. This is a large amphitheater located about 20 mins walk south of the Univa trail head. It has very dark rock on its steep south side ,were the route 5.12 route Silver Lining is located.


Cams 1/2" to 3.5 Friends ,stoppers Two 60m ropes
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
In case there is any doubt, Paul is the Rat. Sep 18, 2007
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
I resemble that remark !Actually the route was named after a book title "Feeding the Rat" that tells the life style of an old Brit friend of mine Mo Anthoine (now deceased). A great character, who like myself had to keep returning to the risk of climbing to help overcome some of the problems of life.............. Sep 19, 2007
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
  5.9+ PG13
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
  5.9+ PG13
The first two pitches have some interesting slab moves, but the last two crack pitches are more like hiking up a steep gully. The second pitch sports 1 bolt, that is well placed considering the crux, but getting to the bolt is long way on some debatable rock, and a potential fall would be extremely unpleasant. Overall I wouldn't recommend this climb, but if you do it, make sure to bring some extra webbing for the anchors. May 27, 2013
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Thanks for your review. The hiking up " steep gullies" of the last two pitches as you call them are very pleasant 5.5- perfect rock/ easy cracks to a very nice summit with great views...not everything with climbing is about grades.However I see you have up graded from our 5.9- to 5.9+.PG13.Suggest you do not get onto some of the higher grade climbs in this area ,or those that sport a R. Jun 18, 2013
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
  5.9+ PG13
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
  5.9+ PG13
Ive only gotten on a handful of the routes in the area. Most of which were fun and memorable. I think I stick to my opinion, which is just that, about the rating. On pitch 2, I got 1 good cam right off the belay, then 1 bad cam in the crack 15ftish below the first bolt. The climbing in between the cams isnt too hard, but far and the rock is questionable in sections. A blown hold would result in extreme unpleasantness. In general climbing terms, I think this would support a pg13. I think a 9- vs 9+ is kind of splitting hairs, but to send a 5.9 leader up this would be a bit of sandbag. Hence the 9+ pg13. As far as the stars, please refer to just my opinion. Opinions aside, I appreciate the work putting up routes in these areas and sharing them for others to enjoy. -cheers Nov 25, 2013
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Good one Greg .I really appreciate that you get on these climbs.I think doing second ascents of these routes often has more fear factor than the first ascent.Its was the adventure and most times having the place to our selves that attracted us to this area.All the Best and watch out for those loose holds...they of course add to the fun... Nov 26, 2013

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