PRINT: Rock Climb Hostile Takeover, Jemez Mountains and Jemez Valley

Hostile Takeover

5.11d, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 11 votes
FA: Chris Eckstein, Mark Beverly, Lance Hadfield
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Gilman Tunnels > Broken Arrows > Right Arrow

Description

This is the premier route at Gilman. With perfect stone, technical, engaging moves, and a stunning, natural line that goes on forever, this one has it all. Begin on the blank-looking slab just right of the Old Punks on Crack dihedral. Shoot straight up the smooth slab past 3 bolts of heinous, technical face climbing to a ramp-like pod that offers a brief rest. Move up to the lip of the bulge with the help of some nice jugs. An intense rock-over crux surmounts the lip of the bulge, where endless 5.10 face moves await. Snake back and forth up the long wall staying right of the splitter crack.

Location

On the right end of the Right Arrow, beginning two feet right of the the obvious right-facing dihedral at the base of the wall.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the shake before the crux bulge of Hostile Takeover.

Entering the crux of Hostile Takeover.

High on the upper slab of Hostile Takeover.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO

To keep the crux the lower bulge and the upper section only 5.10 alot of wandering is required on the upper face. I remember a traverse left between the last bolt and anchors. Going direct made the finish the crux. Oct 25, 2007

Ryan Salazar

5.11d

This route is a ton of fun! A bouldery start for the first three bolts leads to the good rest and then the rock over crux. Find the ledge to rest your toes a little past the halfway mark. The line looks like it leads to the right set of chains (rope makes a straight line instead of a sharp bend if you go to the left set). If you go this way a final mini crux waits for you at the chains. Rock quality is perfect on this one. Aug 4, 2019