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5.10c, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 3 from 13 votes
FA: Marc Beverly, Lance Hadfield
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Gilman Tunnels > Gyno Wall

Description

This short route climbs excellent rock with powerful, long reaches and lockoffs between good holds. Scramble up into the scoop, and crank between horizontal breaks. As you ascend, the angle lessens, as do the holds, leading to a distinct crux that can be surmounted with a painful fingerlock. This route will feel reachy for the height impaired climber.

Location

The left-most route on the Gyno Wall. Cross the creek at The Broken Arrows and walk 50' upstream.

Protection

4 Bolts to ghetto wire/stud anchor setup.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stemming out to get to that 3rd bolt.
[Hide Photo] Stemming out to get to that 3rd bolt.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Cool route, has some very unique climbing on it for the grade. I thought the crux was lower getting the horizontal at the second bolt. I had to do a mini deadpoint through this section, which made it feel harder not knowing what the horizontal was like. Sure enough though it was a jug. Sep 17, 2007
Rennie Putnam
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Awesome and gymnastic climbing, not many granite sport routes like this one. The line is great and my only complaint is that I wish it were longer. Apr 4, 2018
Eric Bowes
Los Alamos, NM
 
[Hide Comment] Broke a big foothold (slightly smaller than a microwave) off the right side near the top. It looked solid - wear your helmets up here! I don't think it changed the nature of the climbing. Mar 31, 2024