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Routes in Super Bowl Wall

Back in the Saddle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Everest 201 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fallout aka Disintegration S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hamster Forever S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Higher, Harder One, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
JP's Variation S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
More Obsessive Tendencies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sick at 17000 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simple Simon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Smash the Poser S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Texas Chosspile S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Where's My Sherpa? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 899 total, 7/month
Shared By: jtwalter on Sep 17, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A bouldery start leads to sharp jugs, big slopers and airy moves.

The crux of the route is probably getting off the ground. There are two variations to the start:

The right variation is .10d and starts with a very bouldery move after which you move to the left to clip the second bolt. You can clip the first bolt from the ground. The move is committing and feels rather stiff for the grade.

The left variation to the start is .11a and feels quite a bit harder than the .10d variation. The route continues straight up from here.

Redpoint crux is probably climbing past the 5th bolt.

Location

Route starts on the left side of Superbowl Wall. It's the 3rd route from the left on Superbowl Wall, immediately to the right of Sick at 17000.

Protection

6 bolts plus the chains. Chains are offset a bit.

Photos

Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
Did this route yesterday, via the .11a direct start. Tried to onsight it but pumped out and fell before the last bolt. Fun climb. Good moves on mostly good holds. Mar 25, 2008
jtwalter
Orem, UT
 
jtwalter   Orem, UT
 
Back in the Saddle is route #4b in the Beta Photo. Oct 1, 2007