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Birthday Direct

V3, Boulder, 12 ft (4 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 410 votes
FA: Doug Robinson
California > Eastern Sierra > Bishop Area > Buttermilk Country > Buttermilks Main > Birthday Boulders

Description

Stand-start matched on a crimp and make a reach up to a high right-hand gaston. Climb straight up with another gaston to a perfect jug on the lip. Balancy, technical, and fun.

Location

North face of the twin Birthday Boulders on the vertical wall, center route.

Protection

pad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Birthday Boulder North Face Topo
[Hide Photo] Birthday Boulder North Face Topo
Birthday Boulder North Face Topo
[Hide Photo] Birthday Boulder North Face Topo
Nicholas Rondilone sending Birthday Direct on his birthday.
[Hide Photo] Nicholas Rondilone sending Birthday Direct on his birthday.
One of the best face problems I've ever done!
[Hide Photo] One of the best face problems I've ever done!
sun setting on birthday direct
[Hide Photo] sun setting on birthday direct
Proud send
[Hide Photo] Proud send
Double-gastoning on 'Birthday Direct'<br> <br> photo: Matt Osbourne
[Hide Photo] Double-gastoning on 'Birthday Direct' photo: Matt Osbourne
Anthony sending birthday direct
[Hide Photo] Anthony sending birthday direct
Stella getting to the business on Birthday Direct.
[Hide Photo] Stella getting to the business on Birthday Direct.
Into the crux of birthday direct. Great movement.
[Hide Photo] Into the crux of birthday direct. Great movement.
Reaching for the left hand pinch
[Hide Photo] Reaching for the left hand pinch
Working the opening moves on Birthday Direct. I eventually chose to use only the right gaston. (photo: Jon Leicht)
[Hide Photo] Working the opening moves on Birthday Direct. I eventually chose to use only the right gaston. (photo: Jon Leicht)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  V3
[Hide Comment] A good techincal problem, although I thought it was easy for the grade. Oct 14, 2008
Michael Molony
Chattanooga
 
[Hide Comment] Really enjoyable movement. However, I actually thought this thing was incredibly tough for the grade, even with good beta Apr 26, 2009
Jason Chinchen
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Euan takes steroids. This thing is pretty technical. Aug 12, 2010
Eric Schnepel
Albuquerque, NM
 
[Hide Comment] Not so bad. Easier for tall people Mar 19, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
[Hide Comment] Absolutely, unequivocally NOT easy for the grade. Mar 29, 2012
Coco Bell
 
[Hide Comment] Pretty tricky if you haven't seen someone your height complete it. Absolutely the shortest approach yet!! Hurrah for fun warm up boulder. Feb 19, 2013
seth o'harra
 
[Hide Comment] You can also go out left with a good side pull. However, the right beta double gaston is the way to go for a fun route. Jan 4, 2014
dave wave
 
[Hide Comment] I wouldn't say it's soft for the grade, but more techy than hard.

If your use to dime edge feet, it'll feel easy.

Super fun crux moves! Apr 11, 2014
Mriss
  V3
[Hide Comment] Short person beta
youtube.com/watch?v=_1-i48z… May 14, 2014
Andy L
 
[Hide Comment] youtube.com/watch?v=NjnWIAI… Nov 2, 2014
Derek Bredl
  V3-4
[Hide Comment] Super hard for the grade ... hardest "V3" in the Milks? Though considerably easier for tall folk. Nov 29, 2017
Matt Haig
Bishop, California
[Hide Comment] Very sad to report this line has recently broken. The crimp on top of the pinch is no more. I did it yesterday and was a little puzzled when that hold simply wasn't there. (Tear) Mar 17, 2018
Nik Kronick
 
[Hide Comment] I am not a strong climber and agree with Euan. Felt easy for V3. Also, not sure about the missing crimp but very doable without it if there is a missing hold. Wish it was longer! Sep 19, 2018
Ashley Swenson
Pasadena, CA
[Hide Comment] youtu.be/k-hQnUhYZLw Jan 1, 2019
Adam Haas
Santa Barbara, CA
[Hide Comment] Slippery. It's been climbed so many times over the years that polishing of the key holds is becoming a factor. Apr 21, 2022
Libby Kasmer
  V3+
[Hide Comment] youtu.be/3oYhqZvwguc

5’7” and 5’3” beta Nov 7, 2022
Y Qiao
CA
[Hide Comment] Short beta:
youtu.be/kezEhNHXkrk Dec 24, 2022
Ruriko Hosaka
[Hide Comment] 4'9" beta
youtube.com/shorts/Dq96BdBA… Mar 10, 2024