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Routes in Beinn Trilleachan - Etive Slabs

Long Reach, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pinch - Direct Start, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Spartan Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swastika T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches
FA: M Hamilton, D Jamieson, B Duff, 1977
Page Views: 199 total · 2/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Sep 16, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

You & This Route


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Description

The Pinch Direct starts below a distinct stepped corner to the right of the huge corner taken by Hammer.

1. Climb up the right facing corner on increasingly more awkward holds. Protection is difficult to place, and well spaced apart.

2. Continue up the slabby corner until possible to exit onto the blank slab. Continue on up the slap making the precarious crux pinch move.

3. A nice long pitch, not as difficult as the pitches below, but still worth respect. Belay in the right facing corner.

4. Move up through numerous overlaps until possible to belay above the majority of the difficulties.

5. Continue up slabby broken ground to the top of the slabs.

Descend via the right descent route.

Location

200 feet left of the coffin stone.

Protection

Trad Gear

Photos

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Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
 
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
 
A Classic. A must if you want to experience one of the more difficult lines on the slabs. Sep 16, 2007

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