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Routes in Beinn Trilleachan - Etive Slabs

Long Reach, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pinch - Direct Start, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Spartan Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swastika T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 48 total, 0/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Sep 16, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

This is arguable one of the finest routes on the slabs - bold climbing on perfect granite.

1. Climb a slim groove up rightwards to a ledge and belay.

2. From the belay climb up leftwards on the perfect slab, until a very committing move up onto a quartz dike can be made. Follow the dike up left to the belay.

3. Move up to the overlap of Swastika. Pull through the overlap, and go up right and belay on a short corner.

4. Move up left and climb a slab passing a quartz pocket. Reach up and continue up and left to the belay below a mini overlap.

5. Climb up and over the overlap, then up and right to below a crack in the overlap.

6. Pass through the overlap on long reaches and follow the groove up until possible to exit via a crack.

Descend using the obvious path on the right.

Location

Start midway between the coffin stone and Swastika

Protection

Trad Gear

Photos

Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
 
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
 
In my opinion, this is the best climb on the slabs. There isn't one weak pitch on the climb. My favorite is the 2nd pitch, a classic Etive slab outing. Sep 16, 2007