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Routes in Beinn Trilleachan - Etive Slabs

Long Reach, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Pinch - Direct Start, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Spartan Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swastika T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 650 ft, 8 pitches
FA: M Noon, E Taylor, June 1957
Page Views: 69 total, 1/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Sep 16, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

The hardest climbing on the route is on the very last pitch - it is well protected and steep, unlike anything else on the route. The lower slabby pitches are very committing.

1. Climb up the right crack until a ledge and belay.

2. Move up the slab and rightwards and belay below a small overlap.

3. Climb up and over the bulge to below the large overhang formed by the slab above.

4. Climb up to the overlap, and using good holds gain a standing position on the lip of the overlap. Now step gingerly left along the 'moustache' until possible to belay.

The next 2 pitches are not technically difficult but they are committing in nature. A cool and positive approach is rewarded.

5. Climb up the faint right trending groove towards the quartz band.

6. Continue up the groove to below the overlap.

7. Climb up to the overlap and move left through it, and then up to the base of a right facing corner.

8. Climb the steep and technical corner. This pitch is unlike any other on the climb, well protected but technically hard.

Descent is by the path slightly up and to the right of the finish.

Location

120 ft left of the coffin stone, below the right of two parallel cracks.

Protection

Trad Gear

Photos

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