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Routes in The Sponge

Freeloader Friday S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Hollywood Tim S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hueco Pareidolia S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mad Dogs and Englishmen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Napoleon's Angst S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pumping Harry S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pumping Huecos S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sal's Neurosis S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sponge Problem, The V8 7B
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: John O'Donnell
Page Views: 200 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Sep 16, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Another good route on the Sponge. Shares a start with Hollywood Tim and then moves left through a small roof/bulge (crux) to easier terrain to the anchors above.

Location

Start the same as Hollywood Tim clipping the first two bolts of Hollywood Tim but then go slighty left through the small roof clipping four more bolts en route to the anchors.

Protection

5 bolts to chain anchor

Photos

Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
FA: John O'Donnell. Jul 15, 2008
kinz Davis
Albuquerque, NM
 
kinz Davis   Albuquerque, NM
 
Third bolt on this rig looked a bit suspect. Bolt protruding some and nut was right up at the end of the threads... couldnt tighten it back by hand. Looks like it needs to be replaced and even moved considering the angle at which it was placed with respect to direction of fall. Happy to put in the work but I dont have a drill at the moment. Sep 29, 2015
Owen S.
Los Alamos
  5.10c
Owen S.   Los Alamos
  5.10c
The left-hand cold shut of Hollywood Tim has got worn down due to the wear of the top-roping of Mad Dogs, and Pumping Harry. To mitigate this, and to provide a better all-round experience, Luke installed independent anchors for Pumping Harry a few weeks ago, and I installed an independent chain anchor with lowering biners for Mad Dogs today. Oct 25, 2016
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
So very civilized to have independent anchors on all these routes. Thanks for the upgrades Owen and Luke. It's a great little wall with fun, featured climbing and it's nice to see the area getting some hardware maintenance. Oct 26, 2016

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