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Sorcerer's Apprentice Left [Suggest Change]
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in The Sorcerer's Apprentice
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Sorcerer's Apprentice Left T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sorcerer's Apprentice Right T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 280 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jimmy Dunn |
| Page Views: | 560 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | e Dixon on Sep 15, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description [Suggest Change]
Pitch 1 - Squeeze up the wide flake to a stance (5.10 and optional gear belay), then continue up the left-facing corner with stemming and thin jams to a big ledge (5.10+). Belay from bolted anchor. A long pitch or can be broken into two pitches after the squeeze start.
Pitch 2 - Climb up the steep to overhanging finger crack in the left-facing corner past a few drilled pins to the top of the pillar (5.11c). Belay from fixed anchor.
Descent - (1) Single rope rappel to big ledge, (2) walk off to the left or do a double rope rappel to the ground.
Pitch 2 - Climb up the steep to overhanging finger crack in the left-facing corner past a few drilled pins to the top of the pillar (5.11c). Belay from fixed anchor.
Descent - (1) Single rope rappel to big ledge, (2) walk off to the left or do a double rope rappel to the ground.
Protection [Suggest Change]
(2) set of Camalots from #.4 - #4, extra finger and tight hands sizes, (1) set nuts, (1) set wires
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