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[Redacted]

5.11a, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.9 from 9 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Whitehorse Ledge > 5. Children's Crusade…

Description

This is the first route to the left of the popular Beelzebub corner Look for three bolts on a steep face.

Pitch 1. Make interesting moves off the ground to the first bolt. Make even more interesting and strenuous moves to reach the second bolt. Next, move up and left making some awesome body tension moves to a jug and the third bolt. Traverse right and then back left to the anchors.

Pitch 2. Move up and left from the belay following a tricky left angling dike protected by pins. Move straight up a difficult slab to bolt protection to the end of the arch on Beelzebub, or you can move right after the last bolt and finish with the 5.9 crux on Reign of Fire
and belay from the bolt anchors on Loose Lips.

Location

Directly after the Ethereal Buttress, left of the Beelzebub corner.

Protection

Small to medium cams and nuts, quick draws, and a couple of shoulder slings to reduce rope drag.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

first pitch, first bolt
[Hide Photo] first pitch, first bolt

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gabe13 Flanders
Warren, ME
 
[Hide Comment] Guidebooks give this an R which it no longer deserves. Quite a bit harder if you're 5'8" or less though...

Between bolt #2 and #3, staying left of the fall line is very balancy, moving right of the fall line is more reachy and strenuous. Choose your own adventure! Jun 21, 2009
[Hide Comment] gabe, guidebooks give it an R rating because on the first ascent Ed Webster placed two pitons on the lead on the first pitch flake, then pins were removed for a number of years until the route was re-bolted. The crux is well protected but getting to the third bolt is a little heady. Oct 4, 2009
[Hide Comment] Seeing this [redacted] here but listed on Youtube sure is a little bit odd... it's a song by John Fahey. Maybe we've gone a little too far?

youtube.com/watch?v=vRiSxm0… Sep 28, 2021
june m
elmore, vt
[Hide Comment] Morgan, I have to agree with you on that. There’s a lot of routes routes that use the alternative spelling of Dike/Dyke, as a play on words apparently my voice to text app does this as well. Jun 27, 2022