Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,043 total · 8/month
Shared By: Casey Bald on Sep 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This is the first route to the left of the popular Beelzebub corner Look for three bolts on a steep face.

Pitch 1. Make interesting moves off the ground to the first bolt. Make even more interesting and strenuous moves to reach the second bolt. Next, move up and left making some awesome body tension moves to a jug and the third bolt. Traverse right and then back left to the anchors.

Pitch 2. Move up and left from the belay following a tricky left angling dike protected by pins. Move straight up a difficult slab to bolt protection to the end of the arch on Beelzebub, or you can move right after the last bolt and finish with the 5.9 crux on Reign of Fire
and belay from the bolt anchors on Loose Lips.


Directly after the Ethereal Buttress, left of the Beelzebub corner.


Small to medium cams and nuts, quick draws, and a couple of shoulder slings to reduce rope drag.


Gabe13 Flanders
Eaton Center, New Hampshire
Gabe13 Flanders   Eaton Center, New Hampshire
Guidebooks give this an R which it no longer deserves. Quite a bit harder if you're 5'8" or less though...

Between bolt #2 and #3, staying left of the fall line is very balancy, moving right of the fall line is more reachy and strenuous. Choose your own adventure! Jun 21, 2009
gabe, guidebooks give it an R rating because on the first ascent Ed Webster placed two pitons on the lead on the first pitch flake, then pins were removed for a number of years until the route was re-bolted. The crux is well protected but getting to the third bolt is a little heady. Oct 4, 2009