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Routes in 5. Children's Crusade Wall

Beelzebub Corner, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Boy's Brigade T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Children's Crusade T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dress Left T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Eliminate, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Problem Child T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Reign of Dykes T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reign of Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Revolt of the Dike Brigade T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 973 total, 8/month
Shared By: Casey Bald on Sep 15, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This is the first route to the left of the popular Beelzebub corner Look for three bolts on a steep face.

Pitch 1. Make interesting moves off the ground to the first bolt. Make even more interesting and strenuous moves to reach the second bolt. Next, move up and left making some awesome body tension moves to a jug and the third bolt. Traverse right and then back left to the anchors.

Pitch 2. Move up and left from the belay following a tricky left angling dike protected by pins. Move straight up a difficult slab to bolt protection to the end of the arch on Beelzebub, or you can move right after the last bolt and finish with the 5.9 crux on Reign of Fire
and belay from the bolt anchors on Loose Lips.

Location

Directly after the Ethereal Buttress, left of the Beelzebub corner.

Protection

Small to medium cams and nuts, quick draws, and a couple of shoulder slings to reduce rope drag.

Photos

gabe, guidebooks give it an R rating because on the first ascent Ed Webster placed two pitons on the lead on the first pitch flake, then pins were removed for a number of years until the route was re-bolted. The crux is well protected but getting to the third bolt is a little heady. Oct 4, 2009
Gabe13 Flanders
Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
Gabe13 Flanders   Eaton Center, New Hampshire
 
Guidebooks give this an R which it no longer deserves. Quite a bit harder if you're 5'8" or less though...

Between bolt #2 and #3, staying left of the fall line is very balancy, moving right of the fall line is more reachy and strenuous. Choose your own adventure! Jun 21, 2009