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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> P. Cathedral Area
> 4. Lower Cathedral Spire
South by Southwest
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 105
votes
Routes in 4. Lower Cathedral Spire
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Hail To The Chief T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Long Live The Chief (free var. Hail To The Chief headwall) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Northeast Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Regular Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Regular Route - Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South by Southwest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Walt Shipley & Keith Reynolds, 7/93 |
| Page Views: | 9,217 total · 51/month |
| Shared By: | Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ for the latest information on visiting Yosemite.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The climb shares the first two pitches (5.6, 5.4) with Regular Route. P3: Then instead going right on the Main Ledge, continue straight up a shallow corner, pass some pins (5.9), pass a bulge (10d) to a baley before right facing corner. P4. Climb straight up the corner to a roof, traverse under the roof, and over to a stance (11a), then a bit higher to a good stance (5.8). P5: a 5.9 pitch leads to the top. There is also a 10a variation if you break left at the very top. Enjoy the view of the valley and el cap! (nota bene: the 11 pitch is more like the 'old school' 10. So this may be a good climb to break into the grade.)
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