PRINT: Rock Climb The Tube, Yosemite National Park

The Tube

5.11a, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 3.3 from 105 votes
FA: Jim Bridwell, Kevin Worrall, Dale Bard & George Meyers 1974
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Lower Merced Ri… > Am. Pat & Jack Pinnacle

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Description

Climb the somewhat strenuous corner to some good knobs. Climb the knobs to the blank section of the corner. Use tubing, the mixture of corner and chimney technique to get through this blank section. There is a good hold as a reward at the end of the crux. The fall at the crux is not the cleanest, but as far as the 5.11s go in the Valley, this one is on the easier side.

Location

Sweet looking left facing corner in the middle of Pat and Jack Pinnacle area, about 30 feet right of Underclingon, the bolted underclinging traverse.

Protection

Standard rack with some small gear for the crux (blue alien can be placed right after the blank crux section, yellow or some nuts right before).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

finally hittin the good enough hold after the crux - fun route, fun views, no wasps?? get on it!

The Tube. It's about to get hard...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Scott Bennett
Western North America

Good climb. If you have the technique dialed, it's pretty chill, but if not, you'll have to pull hard. I thought the pro was OK, but I know of at least one good climber that got hurt badly on this climb. Climb safe.
-Scott Oct 1, 2009

Osprey Overhang
...

Keep your right shoulder pasted to the rock throughout the crux. This and your left foot in opposition are what holds you in. Don't extend upward to reach the hold after the crux or your shoulder will pop off and so will you. Jan 7, 2010

Chris I
Fort Collins, CO

Beware of wasps around the anchor of this climb. In warm weather they come out in force, and my buddy was being harassed by them pretty badly. The same afternoon another climber came off the climb with more than 6 stings. Oct 11, 2011

Linnea Williams

Yes, there are wasps at the top of this route. Beware! My partner was stung 30x while trying to clean the anchor. They started stinging her after she had already untied to rap. Scary stuff. Otherwise, it's a great route. Oct 24, 2011

Justin Vandever
Berkeley, CA

This climb is actually in a left facing corner. Feb 12, 2012

Austin Archer
Bishop, Ca.

What Osprey said! haha..I took a couple of really good whippers on this when I was chipping teeth with this grade. Really fun climb once you get the sequence dialed. Sep 14, 2013

Michael Dom

5.11a

Get your small gear in order. lots of little nuts for the top. Heady route for sure. Dec 13, 2015

King Tut
Citrus Heights

^^^ Heady route wtfover? Its a rock climb that takes plenty of pro. Jul 20, 2017

Bill Price

There is a chance to take a bad fall onto the knobs below (King Tut). It is hard to place pro during crux because you cannot see into crack while "tubing". I originally lead it in the late '70's with stoppers and hexes. This time I placed 3 stoppers on the first 30' because the crack was perfect for them and I only had one set of cams. Placed micro cams from rest knobs below crux and went for it! More cams to the finish. This climb was originally rated 10d, then 11b, I think still 11b because it is not straight forward crack or layback, a special technique required to send! Feb 27, 2018

John Clark
Reno, NV

5.11-

If you are having pro issues, there is a bomber #1 peenut placement right before the meat of the crux that you can backup with a .2 or .4 X4 from the stance below. Took a few 20' whips and with a competent belayer it is very safe. Apr 2, 2018

Natalie N
Bishop, CA

After a wet winter, the crux section was still wet and slimy after 4 days of no precip; it seemed dry from the base. Feb 25, 2019