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Heart Of Stone

5.7+, Trad, 480 ft (145 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter, 9/11/07
Utah > S Central Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swel… > Eastern Reef Ar… > K Crags

Description

Park at the Univa trail head. Walk south for about 20 mins just passed the impressive amphitheatre of Bongo Canyon.The route goes up a shallow groove system on the left skyline of the buttress that forms the south side of the canyon.Scramble to the top of the dark rock wave, cairn. A good introduction to the slab climbs.
(P1 .Straight up the smooth looking slab to an overlap , over this and continue to a steeper brown rock section ,pull over this and continue up a groove to double anchors,cam protection. 190' 5.7+
(P2. Take the rising traverse to the right and enter the obvious groove ,follow to double anchors. 190'5.5
(P3. Directly above is a thin dark seam ,climb this to summit anchors. 100'5.3R. Register in cairn several feet above anchors. Rap the route

Location

Univa trail head ,see description

Protection

small cams to 3.5 friends,stoppers. two 60m ropes

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

(A)Heart Of Stone.5.7+ (B)Agille Du Tangelo.5.4R (C)Silver Lining.5.12R
[Hide Photo] (A)Heart Of Stone.5.7+ (B)Agille Du Tangelo.5.4R (C)Silver Lining.5.12R
Pitch 2 traversing  out to the groove
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2 traversing out to the groove
Pitch 3
[Hide Photo] Pitch 3
Topping out on First Pitch
[Hide Photo] Topping out on First Pitch