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The Angel's Share

5.10c, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 121 votes
FA: Jim Stone and Jeff Baldwin
Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Left Fork > Orangutan Wall

Description

A fairly long climb by Maple standards, The Angel's Share starts out low angled and progressively steepens to vertical below the first bolt. The climbing is on vertical to slightly overhanging rock the rest of the way. Positive holds most of the way, along with some pockets, sidepulls, and pinches. Depending on the season you may disturb some of the resident wasps.

Location

The Angel's Share climbs light colored rock between two black streaks. The first two bolts and hangers are reddish brown in color. Find the big cobble on the slab...this is the route 5 feet to the right of that big cobble.

Protection

8 bolts, Metolius rap hangers

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Angel's Share
[Hide Photo] The Angel's Share
Jon
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kenny Clark
State College, PA
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] A long and sustained route. I didn't feel like there was a defining crux, just relax, hold on and push to the anchors. A slight bulge about 60-70 ft up made for some fun moves. Apr 3, 2011
darrell hodges
[Hide Comment] After reading Perins description, I'm no sure which route is Angels Share.
There are two routes here that share an anchor. I thought the right hand one is Angels Share, but the left one has reddish brown bolts at the start, which I guess would make that Angels Share according to Perins description.
The left route seems significantly harder than the right one. May 22, 2011
Chris Stocking
SLC, UT
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] This is the left-hand climb of the two that share the anchors. It's considerably harder than it's neighbor to the right. Sep 17, 2020