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Dr. Needlepoint

5.9, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 17 votes
FA: unknown
Virginia > DC & Northern V… > Great Falls > Dr. Needlepoint

Description

Crack system up the center of a small wall. Lots of options maybe too many because it does not let up.

Location

This is the Dr. Needlepoint cliff.

Protection

A good lead route as well as a top rope.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Runyan
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] For those considering taking up the sharp end at Great Falls:

"The rock is partially-metamorphosed schist composed of granite and quartz crystals. While the rock is stable, it is not recomended for trad climbing as protection will slip or break out."

Edit: Source of quote is the little orange-covered Great Falls guidebook. Apr 30, 2008
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
[Hide Comment] For what its worth, we used to lead here all the time, and the gear always held. May 2, 2010
Matt Lavender
[Hide Comment] The rock at Carderock/Great Falls is a mica schist which, by definition, is a metamorphic rock (it is fully metamorphosed - not partially metamorphosed). There is no granite to be found in the rock but there are lots of quartz crystals. As for leading...many an experienced climber has found that the mica has an elastic quality that allows it to deform slightly. Seemingly bomber pins and nuts have pulled out of the rock due to the deformation. Expansion bolts are also suspect but glue-ins probably would work just fine. Mar 21, 2018