Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,517 total · 11/month
Shared By: franciscov on Sep 13, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Crack system up the center of a small wall. Lots of options maybe too many because it does not let up.

Location

This is the Dr. Needlepoint cliff.

Protection

A good lead route as well as a top rope.

Photos

- No Photos -
C Runyan
Boulder, CO
C Runyan   Boulder, CO
For those considering taking up the sharp end at Great Falls:

"The rock is partially-metamorphosed schist composed of granite and quartz crystals. While the rock is stable, it is not recomended for trad climbing as protection will slip or break out."

Edit: Source of quote is the little orange-covered Great Falls guidebook. Apr 30, 2008
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
For what its worth, we used to lead here all the time, and the gear always held. May 2, 2010
The rock at Carderock/Great Falls is a mica schist which, by definition, is a metamorphic rock (it is fully metamorphosed - not partially metamorphosed). There is no granite to be found in the rock but there are lots of quartz crystals. As for leading...many an experienced climber has found that the mica has an elastic quality that allows it to deform slightly. Seemingly bomber pins and nuts have pulled out of the rock due to the deformation. Expansion bolts are also suspect but glue-ins probably would work just fine. Mar 21, 2018