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Routes in Dr. Needlepoint

A Bridge Too Far TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A.B.T.F Overhang Var TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Balder TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Blitzkrieg TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Conroy TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crewl Work TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dr. Needlepoint TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Escutcheon TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Inclined Plane TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Maginot Line TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Needlepoint Corner T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Needlepoint Descent Route T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Royal Bobbins TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Siegfried Line TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Twin Blade TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wall of Da Feet TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,493 total · 11/month
Shared By: franciscov on Sep 13, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

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Description

Crack system up the center of a small wall. Lots of options maybe too many because it does not let up.

Location

This is the Dr. Needlepoint cliff.

Protection

A good lead route as well as a top rope.

Photos

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C Runyan
Boulder, CO
C Runyan   Boulder, CO
For those considering taking up the sharp end at Great Falls:

"The rock is partially-metamorphosed schist composed of granite and quartz crystals. While the rock is stable, it is not recomended for trad climbing as protection will slip or break out."

Edit: Source of quote is the little orange-covered Great Falls guidebook. Apr 30, 2008
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
 
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
 
For what its worth, we used to lead here all the time, and the gear always held. May 2, 2010
The rock at Carderock/Great Falls is a mica schist which, by definition, is a metamorphic rock (it is fully metamorphosed - not partially metamorphosed). There is no granite to be found in the rock but there are lots of quartz crystals. As for leading...many an experienced climber has found that the mica has an elastic quality that allows it to deform slightly. Seemingly bomber pins and nuts have pulled out of the rock due to the deformation. Expansion bolts are also suspect but glue-ins probably would work just fine. Mar 21, 2018

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