Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Dale Bard
Page Views: 2,409 total · 17/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Sep 12, 2007 with improvements by Dave Livingston
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

...We Salute You (ACDC)

A great route for this area! Kind of soft for the grade (11a in guidebook) but it is a must do!

Go up an easy corner with a vibrating spike and get good Yellow-Red Aliens. Next is a very unnecessary upward-driven angle piton that (IMO) should be removed. Better Green Alien(s) around the pin can be placed. Sweet underclings with lots good gear move you out right to where it eases and turns into a vertical flake. Go to an anchor that needs extra links on the hangers.

Location

You can't miss this cool looking undercling feature!

Protection

Doubles of Green to Red Aliens (one .5 BD Camalot may work better at the crux) and (one each) #.75 through #3 Camalots

2 quicklinks will straighten out the anchor.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
To this climber, 4 Those About 2 Rock is not a hair easier than 5.10d, but certainly not 5.11a. If you have only led a handful of 5.10a trad routes and saw this thing rated 5.10b/c in a guidebook, you might get lured in to a true epic of exhaustion. Perhaps it's not helpful to mince grades, but I thought this line fairly pumpy, with a section or two that required technical prowess. Definitely hard 5.10.

The easy 5th class top-out is a true victory finish. Awesome, awesome route. An absolute MUST DO at the crag. Apr 7, 2010
Bailey K
Charleston, SC
  5.10c/d
Bailey K   Charleston, SC
  5.10c/d
Fixed .3ish sized cam right by the pin sorta blocks a handhold that would make the crux easier. I did a sort of undercling cross moves that felt a bit hard for 10c. Maybe 10dish in its current state? Ither way, great route that doesn't let up for the entirety of the roof traverse. Jan 12, 2019