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Routes in Frontier Right

4 Those About 2 Rock T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Arabesque T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cannibal T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Creme del Este T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Jammin' With Jane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Tut's Tomb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pyramid Power T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Warrior Waitress (aka Caravans) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Welcome to the Dark Side S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Dale Bard
Page Views: 2,015 total · 16/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Sep 12, 2007 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

...We Salute You (ACDC)

A great route for this area! Kind of soft for the grade (11a in guidebook) but it is a must do!

Go up an easy corner with a vibrating spike and get good Yellow-Red Aliens. Next is a very unnecessary upward-driven angle piton that (IMO) should be removed. Better Green Alien(s) around the pin can be placed. Sweet underclings with lots good gear move you out right to where it eases and turns into a vertical flake. Go to an anchor that needs extra links on the hangers.



Location

You can't miss this cool looking undercling feature!

Protection

Doubles of Green to Red Aliens (one .5 BD Camalot may work better at the crux) and (one each) #.75 through #3 Camalots

2 quicklinks will straighten out the anchor.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
To this climber, 4 Those About 2 Rock is not a hair easier than 5.10d, but certainly not 5.11a. If you have only led a handful of 5.10a trad routes and saw this thing rated 5.10b/c in a guidebook, you might get lured in to a true epic of exhaustion. Perhaps it's not helpful to mince grades, but I thought this line fairly pumpy, with a section or two that required technical prowess. Definitely hard 5.10.

The easy 5th class top-out is a true victory finish. Awesome, awesome route. An absolute MUST DO at the crag. Apr 7, 2010