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Routes in Triple Cracks Sanctuary

Becky's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Grass Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grass Crack Direct TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Middle Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Owl Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upper Grass Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,951 total, 16/month
Shared By: D. Shaw on Sep 11, 2007
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

This is the crack to the left of Middle Crack. Very nice, sustained, with some offwidth, but mostly fist and hand jams. If one is not familiar with offwidth moves, it is probably 9+.

Location

Left most of the triple cracks, not counting Grass Crack, which is on the arete to the left. Becky's is the widest crack of the three or triple cracks.

Protection

Big cams, can move left to the anchors on Grass Crack at the top.

Photos

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Ky Harkey  
 
Led this yesterday. The black-sheep of the triple cracks, but underrated- super fun route. Maybe not pg-13, but I think it can be tricky to protect. The main crack sucks up #3-#6, maybe even a #2 in spots. But higher up is where i think it gets the pg-13. Without a #6, the opening moves of the chimney would feel exposed. Then there's a little bit of rotten rock which can take small gear, #.5. I like anchoring to the huge top rock horn, but you can wander over to Grass Crack anchors too. Nov 2, 2015
I actually think this is the easiest of the triple cracks. You feet walk up the sides on great crystals for 20+ feet...then a short 6 foot section of jams or layback until you sink a FANTASTIC fist into the widened slot above...then it's over...a cakewalk to the top.

And yes, it eats up the gear. Very safe. May 10, 2013
im cosigning. not PG13. this thing eats up gear. Aug 28, 2012
mattm
TX
  5.9
mattm   TX
  5.9
There's NO WAY this is PG-13. PG MAYBE, if you don't have a #5 but it's not PG13 by a long shot. May 22, 2012