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Routes in Upper Tier

Coffin Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corpse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crutch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cushionfoot Stomp S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deaths Head T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epitaph T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fall Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flook T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hang Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
High Performance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Marjorie Razor Blade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Noddy T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Pied Piper T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Ramp, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Catcher T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Rat Race T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Squirm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squirm Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stand Clear T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Summer Days T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tombstone T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tumbleweed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warfarin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: M Forbes, G Millar, 8th Dec 1969, FFA D Cuthbertson, G Latter, 1982
Page Views: 24 total, 0/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Sep 10, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

Make a difficult start up a right trending crack / flake into a good niche. From the niche make a long reach up to the left to a good hold.

From the good hold make difficult crimpy moves straight up, until possible to move right to a good pinch (crux). Peg runner in Squirm Direct. From here move left and up to the bottom of the diagonal crack. From the base of the crack move up the prow until moves right allow a groove to be reached.

Finish up the groove of Stand Clear.

Location

Located on the right side of the steep central wall.

Protection

Quickdraws. Cams can be helpful for the original finish

Photos

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Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
 
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
 
This climb has been superseded by its more recent neighbor's, but in its day it was one of the hardest climbs in Scotland.

Before the more recent sport bolts were placed (late 80s) a lead meant hooking some very fragile old bolts for protection, and provided quite the experience. Sep 11, 2007