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Routes in Upper Tier

Coffin Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corpse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crutch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cushionfoot Stomp S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Deaths Head T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Epitaph T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fall Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flook T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hang Out T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
High Performance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Marjorie Razor Blade T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Noddy T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Pied Piper T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Ramp, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Catcher T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Rat Race T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Squirm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squirm Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stand Clear T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Summer Days T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tombstone T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tumbleweed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Warfarin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: B Robertson, J MacLean, 1963, FFA M Graham 1978
Page Views: 55 total, 0/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Sep 10, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

The first free ascent of Rat Race was a break trough in Scottish free climbing and is still a hard tick to onsight.

1. Climb up the pod like crack on the left of the steep central wall. Climb the crack above to a difficult section exiting the niche at 2/3 height. From the niche continue up the crack to the hanging belay.

2. Make hard moves of the stance and gain the right trending groove. When possible pull left through the roof on huge holds for spectacular moves. Continue on up the short wall above to the top.

Location

Left edge of the steep central wall.

Protection

Trad Gear, 3 fixed pins.

Photos

Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
 
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
 
Protection on the 1st pitch is adequate, but it is strenuous to place. The second pitch is wild! Sep 11, 2007