Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Queen's View- Standard Route

5.8 A2- PG13, Trad, Aid, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Wilson Goodrich, Mike Baker, March 14, 1999
Utah > Southeast Utah > 191 South > Joe Wilson Canyon
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This starts on the side away from Tranquility Tower, the east face. It begins up the left side of a slab.

Pitch 1- Climb up past a pin, then to a large ledge with fixed pins. Don't expect much gear on this pitch,. but it is rather easy.

Pitch 2- begin up pins to an incipient seam. We nailed, and later constructively scarred two baby angles placement on this pitch. With the use of small offset micronuts this should go clean. Or with a big stick clip this could easily go clean. Exit onto sandy slabs and an anchor on the summit.

Descent- Rappel the route with double 60 meter ropes.

Location

Walk past Feeding the Rat on Tranquility and directly towards Queen's View. The route starts on the opposite side.

Protection

GO BIG and go clean- 4+ draws, and a single set of cams from blue alien to #2 camalot. 1 set stoppers, offset brassies would be best.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jeff's hand placed sawed off pin placement on pitch 2.  <br>
Like throwing a hotdog down a hallway.
[Hide Photo] Jeff's hand placed sawed off pin placement on pitch 2. Like throwing a hotdog down a hallway.
Brad wondering were I supposed to get gear on pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Brad wondering were I supposed to get gear on pitch 1
Brad on pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Brad on pitch 2
Queens View.
[Hide Photo] Queens View.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Ben K and I did this route - fun, easy tick. It does go clean (Thanks Brad and Matt for the nice constructive scarring job!), but bring a 1" or 1-1/4" angle, or large hook, for hand-placing in two old drill holes near the top of the seam. Assuming there was a bolt here previously, a replacement is probably justified due the soft rock. Jan 17, 2012
Paul S
Fruita, CO
[Hide Comment] A single 70m rope is enough to rappel down with. A brown tricam worked for the holes towards the top, but it was iffy! I was desperately wishing I had a #3 camalot instead of a #2 for the placement above the holes. Dec 2, 2014