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Routes in The Matrix

A Place Where I Can Hide S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amenema S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
American Dream S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Erectile Dysfunction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Long Hard Dry Spell, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Right Hand Rosie S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sound the Klaxon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Twelve Tasty Donuts S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Underneath a Red Moon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vapor Trails S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jason Stevens
Page Views: 84 total, 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 10, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Face climbing followed by stemming on less-than-vertical terrain, followed by some exciting stemming under an overhang (it's hard to call it a roof because it is so rounded.) The chains are just above the overhang.

There is a fair amount of loose material on this route and we liberated several baseball-sized stones as well as a number of marble-sized pieces. The loosest section is runout about fifteen feet; fortunately the climbing through the section is fairly easy stemming. The only anxiety arises from looking down between your legs and thinking that you're getting kind of far from the previous bolt.

Location

This climbs an obvious, shallow trough to an overhang. Above and behind the overhang a deep crevice continues. This is located shortly before the outside corner in the wall, beyond which are constructed terraces.

Protection

9 bolts to chain anchors with cord backup. The last bolt is non-obvious; it is on the left side of the overhang near the top.

Photos

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Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.8
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.8
The second half of this route is extremely dirty. If you decide to climb this one, tread very lightly! Oct 23, 2017
Mr. Hummus
SLC, Utah
 
Mr. Hummus   SLC, Utah
 
I thought this route was really fun. Different from traditional cobble pulling moves at maple. Tread lightly and don't pull out on the cobbles! It's solid enough if you're careful. Sep 25, 2013
Kenan
  5.9
Kenan  
  5.9
I recommend avoiding this route. I climbed it last week, pulled off a grapefruit-sized cobble in the runout section high up, and barely hung on to avoid a huge whipper. This thing is DIRTY and has lots of loose cobbles. Beware! Sep 26, 2011
jtwalter
Orem, UT
jtwalter   Orem, UT
This must be the climb that is listed as a project in Jason Steven's Maple Canyon guide book. Sep 10, 2007