Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||FA Ken Trout and partner|
|Page Views:||1,197 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Brad Brandewie on Sep 9, 2007|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Pitch 1 Climb a left facing/right leaning corner to a belay just below the A-frame roof. The anchor here is slings tied around boulders so bring some replacement cord and a knife to remove the tat that you will likely find. (5.8)
(An optional first pitch climbs straight up to the roof beginning on a pair of thin cracks that turn into a single wide crack before the anchor)
Pitch 2 Continue over the roof and up to a belay in the notch. (5.10)
Pitch 3 Climb up broken rock tending left until you get into a clean, angular chimney which pinches down in the back offering some wide protection. (This chimney is visible in the photo on the cover of Desert Rock IV) From the top of the chimney climb right over some loose terrain until you are standing below a short slab. Climb the slab and the corner above it to the summit. (This slab is the mental crux of the route and also why it gets an R rating.) Watch for rope drag on this pitch. (5.9 R-)
Rappel from bolts to the notch and then from slings to the ground near the start of the route.