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Routes in Saigon Boulder

Monkey Business V4+ 6B+ PG13
Monkey Dihedral V2 5+
Saigon V6 7A
Saigon Direct V8-9 7B+
Type: Boulder, 22 ft
FA: Tommy Klinefelter
Page Views: 8,204 total, 66/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Sep 7, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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69 Opinions

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Description

This awesome singular prow problem on perfect rock is a 3 move wonder in between easier sections, but man, those are 3 killer moves.

Teasingly easy entry moves lead to two height-dependent crux sequences. For most taller people like myself, its a wild lean out right with the right hand to a sloper-type thingy utilizing a left heel hook. A left hand power up to a bulbous crimp sets you up for the big, flying move to a killer jug! Match and crank off a few knobs and small but positive plates up off the deck, to the blunt top out.

Other people may have to match hands on the bulbous crimp (YIKES!!) and continue.

IMO this is a height-dependent rating...

This boulder problem is sooo good, it got me psyched to get my pads out of storage!!

Protection

crash pads and spotters till you get it wired
Still not sent this rig ... super height dependent ... 2 completely different problems whether or not you can reach that right hand sloper. At just under 5'5" I can not reach it.

I agree with most that say you gotta be 5'8" or 5'9" or taller to get the V6 ... even then pretty hard at the grade (certainly harder than High Plains for most). Nov 29, 2017
Mike Deitchman
Boulder, CO
  V5+
Mike Deitchman   Boulder, CO
  V5+
I did this problem some time in 2001. It was rated V5 at the time, and felt sandbagged. I like the new rating better... It's definitely height dependent. Dec 26, 2016
Raddam6
Salt Lake
  V6
Raddam6   Salt Lake
  V6
I would say its V6 for medium heights people such as me at 5'9". Jan 24, 2015
cbtacy
  V6
cbtacy  
  V6
If you're under about 5'6" this is legitimately V6.

Super good climbing. Aug 11, 2013
Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
 
Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
Tim Steele   Bishop, CA.
FA was Tommy Klinefelter Feb 8, 2011
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  V5-6
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  V5-6
That jug is sharp as hell.

The topout is a lot of fun too-- the holds are good, but you do gain some altitude up there. Mar 31, 2008
AWinters
NH
  V5-6
AWinters   NH  
  V5-6
I agree that this rating is height-dependent. matching on that sloping bulb/crimp is heinous.. Mar 3, 2008