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Routes in Omega Buttress

Annals of Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dihedral of Horrors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge of Horror, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Guardian of Death T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V10 7C+ C0-1
Manufactured Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Omega Crack T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Omega Triangle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Hans Johnstone/Greg Collins - Originally equipped by Sam Lightner
Page Views: 2,886 total, 23/month
Shared By: Forest on Sep 6, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

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OMEGA CRACK - P1: 5.12b, P2: 5.12b

The finest rock route I've done in the Tetons. Exceptional rock. Very clean cracks, with technical and powerful face climbing. Far and away the steepest crack in the Tetons.


From Death Canyon TH: Follow trail 100m past slabs at the base of Omega Buttress. Follow scree slope up and right until easy 5th class ledges. Follow easy ledges to the base of the overhanging wall.

One double rope rappel to the base of the climb. Follow easy ledges down and west until a tree with slings is found. One double rope rappel brings one back to the top of the scree slope.


10 Quickdraws
1 Set of stoppers
1 Set of Friends with two extra of #2, #3
1 Long sling


Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
This thing is super fun! Not sure about extra rattly hand sizes. The only doubles we had were #1 C4s. (used both) Didn't place the 3 at all. The cracks are pretty poddy and varied and you can usually make something else work. Aug 22, 2017
Max Bechdel
Jackson, WY
Max Bechdel   Jackson, WY
PS - to get on the ledges go pretty far left up the gully until it's obviously the last 5th class spot you can climb up (to the right). Then easier ledge traversing to the base of the climb. Aug 15, 2016
Gee Double  
No amount of typing on your keyboard will get bolts, hand drilled, in this overhang or a red point of this route. 60 m rope is ok. I would recommend 2 hand sized cams for pitch 2, and taping hands at the belay. Yes, I am afraid so, I made the send. The approach is fine from Dihedral of Horrors/Guardian of Death, the normal route. Jun 14, 2014
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
This thing is burly right off the deck.

What's the deal with the old fixed line to the left of the route? Jun 20, 2012
Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
Sam, maybe it would be more accurate to call it "the best west-facing hand crack of two pitches on central Omega Buttress". Best rock climb in GTNP? Hmmm. Jul 5, 2008
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
This is the best rock climb in the Tetons. It is perhaps the steepest crack I have ever been on. That being the case, rappellling down it with only one 60 would be horrid. If you go to the top your partner has to go to the top as well. Sep 7, 2007