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Diagonally Seeking Susan
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.2 from 5
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Routes in Contact Buttress
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Diagonally Seeking Susan T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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First Contact T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | James Garrett and George Jameson, 1988. Cleaned up and pitches added by JG and Josh Briggs, late 90s |
| Page Views: | 1,907 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Sep 6, 2007 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
We must have been into Madonna then? This is probably more of an update than a first ascent, but it is much different than previously documented, As described in the Ruckman Guide, this route was originally done in a bit of a hurry. Way back when, George and I did essentially no cleaning and aided the 3rd pitch as darkness was soon approaching. Since then, I went back numerous times with Franziska Garrett and we did significant cleaning, freed the old aided pitch (#3), and added some more to go higher up the buttress. It has evolved into a much more enjoyable climb, IMO.
Possibly, the only drawback is still the somewhat lengthy and steep approach, but compared to other things, it is really not a big deal. Aggressive cleaning uncovered a much nicer climb!....as one often finds out down the road on these north facing routes of LCC.
Pitch #1: Climb straight up the slab past an overhang clipping some bolts and fixed pins along the way. Perfect granite. 5.10a
Pitch #2: Now better protected, climb some shelfy type mantles to a thin left facing dihedral that culminates at an awkward roof to a two-bolt hanging belay ledge of sorts. 5.9 - 5.10.
Pitch #3-4: Aggressive cleaning this former A2 pitch yields a fun hands to finger crack to some face climbing. What a change! This diagonals left for a long pitch or one can find a mid pitch belay as well. 5.10.
Pitch #5: From the two bolt belay (formerly at the huge tree on the far left of the buttress) climb up and right up some funky corners and overlaps and slap your way up a very smooth well protected slab on perfect Wasatch granite. Glue in bolted belay and rappel station. 5.11a?
Rappel the route.
Possibly, the only drawback is still the somewhat lengthy and steep approach, but compared to other things, it is really not a big deal. Aggressive cleaning uncovered a much nicer climb!....as one often finds out down the road on these north facing routes of LCC.
Pitch #1: Climb straight up the slab past an overhang clipping some bolts and fixed pins along the way. Perfect granite. 5.10a
Pitch #2: Now better protected, climb some shelfy type mantles to a thin left facing dihedral that culminates at an awkward roof to a two-bolt hanging belay ledge of sorts. 5.9 - 5.10.
Pitch #3-4: Aggressive cleaning this former A2 pitch yields a fun hands to finger crack to some face climbing. What a change! This diagonals left for a long pitch or one can find a mid pitch belay as well. 5.10.
Pitch #5: From the two bolt belay (formerly at the huge tree on the far left of the buttress) climb up and right up some funky corners and overlaps and slap your way up a very smooth well protected slab on perfect Wasatch granite. Glue in bolted belay and rappel station. 5.11a?
Rappel the route.
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