Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Starr Wall

High Mountain Woody T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Neighbourhood Bully T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Paul's Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shallow End, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slap and Tickle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stefanie's Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Under the Mercy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Glenn Payan, John Thomson
Page Views: 1,616 total, 13/month
Shared By: ScottH on Sep 6, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


49 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access issues at the Lower Malamute. Details

Description

Stefanie's Tears is a sweet little 2 pitch climb right of High Mountain Woody. A small step up in difficulty and more sustained than that route, but well within the grasp of anyone leading HMW.

P1. Scramble up past the tree stump into a left-angling finger crack. When you reach the large undercling on the right, reach over and clip the second bolt on Neighbourhood Bully, then move right (tricky and fun) and finish up the arete. Nice exposure and committing moves take you to a bolted belay on View Ledge. 5.9

P2. Climb the obvious corner crack above. There are certainly many ways to do this, but it is a fun layback. 5.8

Location

Stefanie's Tears climbs the rightmost crack on the Starr Wall. Descend to the best of HMW via your method of choice, then scramble down the ledge another 20 feet to a finger crack above a flake and cedar stump. This is the start of Stefanie's Tears, Gonch Pull, and Neighbourhood Bully.

Protection

Gear to 1". A double or two around .5 or .75 camalot is nice for the second pitch, but not needed. Bolted anchors.

Photos

keith story
Boulder, CO
 
keith story   Boulder, CO
 
Make sure you grab that wooden knob at the begining of P1, as is trad-ition.

First pitch has crux at end with good finger jams.
Second pitch is all layback and I think slightly more difficult.

Great for first time leaders. Both pitches eat up gear and have great stances for placing. Jul 28, 2016