PRINT: Rock Climb Quick Robin, to the Batcrack!, The New River Gorge Region

Quick Robin, to the Batcrack!

5.10-, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3 from 66 votes
FA: Phil Wilt, Carl Samples '83
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Beauty Mountain > 6) Middle Beauty

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Pull a move or two in order to gain the dihedral. Stemming, high stepping and thin fingers will bring you to a stance from which you traverse right to a bomber flake. Pull a couple of slightly overhanging moves to a good stance and follow some classic NRG topout slopers to the anchors.

Location

Continue walking upstream from the Burning Buttress. This is one of the first routes you'll come to on the wall to the right of, and adjacent to the wall that has Rod Serling Crack on it. Look for a beautiful left-facing dihedral that is very similar to Black and Tan at Endless Wall.

Protection

Everything from #2 Camalot to purple TCU. Thin stuff for the middle. Bolted anchor up top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stemmed out in the dihedral

Joe DeGaetano mid climb.

Bat Crack, NRG, WV.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Pat Light
Charlottesville, VA

A very good route! Sustained, but not too long. A robust, dicey start leads to a thin technical corner, which gives way to a nicely exposed finish. Not as blue collar as other routes nearby.

Bring all your small gear. Expect to do some fiddling, but it's all there. I found two spots for #2s (the first one is obvious and basically on the ground) and a thank-God #1 up top. Sep 30, 2018

Erica Lineberry
Charlotte, NC

The start is pretty polished and imo the hardest moves of the climb. Gear options are not great, save a piece that is really too low to do much good. Considering all that, I stick clipped the 1st bolt on Hilti as Charged to protect the start, then once I got to the ledge, I got a bomber nut in the crack and could easily remove the QD on Hilti. Nov 11, 2019