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Breaking Rocks is Hard to Do

5.9, Trad, 100 ft,  Avg: 2.7 from 46 votes
FA: Rich Gottlieb, Jack Carter - 1978
N Carolina > Moore's Wall > Amphitheater

Description

If the steep approach hike from the parking lot didn't leave you panting, Breaking Rocks will. The opening moves are strenuous but well-protected.

Starting in an alcove left of an arete, thrash through the tough off-width to gain the crack that the off-width narrows into. Follow this steep crack to its end, then move right and up through another crack to end at a spacious ledge.

Location

Located in the Amphitheatre section; starts about 40' right of Almost Seven in a small alcove. Rap from fixed gear rap station shared with Stab in the Dark.

Protection

Mostly small to medium pro, but bring some big gear (e.g., #5 Camalot) for the off-width.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Keith moving out right on Breaking Rocks. The Breaking Rocks ledge and Finger love are also shown in the picture.
[Hide Photo] Keith moving out right on Breaking Rocks. The Breaking Rocks ledge and Finger love are also shown in the picture.
Top of the opening chimney section
[Hide Photo] Top of the opening chimney section
Breaking Rocks... after the initial burliness. A fun still non-trivial line up an irregular crack that eventually diagonals to the right. Our rap line ended up to the right of the gear line. Starts in the BIG feature out left.
[Hide Photo] Breaking Rocks... after the initial burliness. A fun still non-trivial line up an irregular crack that eventually diagonals to the right. Our rap line ended up to the right of the gear line. Starts…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] This is a real workout, but a lot of fun. Tape gloves or hand jammies are a good idea. Hats off to Michael K. for a burly lead. Sep 4, 2007
Tim Fisher
  5.9-
[Hide Comment] This is an under appreciated climb. Kinda like granite at the start. A big chock stone pulled off the start of this in the 80s. Jun 4, 2009
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Figured out today that it's possible to traverse in from the left about 20 feet up and dodge the crux at the bottom. This travels up the easy breakdown+large crack to the left and steps across the gap to where the little bit of greenery is. Just enough gear to make it palatable. We used it set up a rope for 2nds who weren't up to the burl challenge and just wanted to TR an easier line. Be sure to take care with directionals if you do this though as a pendulum would be kind of nasty. Rest of the line probably goes at 5.8 this way, but the dodge is considerably easier. Jul 4, 2010
Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
[Hide Comment] Home of many a grunt-fest. Stemming scumming and the occasional jam will get you through the business. Very first move is probably harder for the shorter.

Start protects well with a big nut or two. Oct 12, 2010
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] A very unique climb for Moore's. Sep 19, 2015
Sean M
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Great climb. Burly start, a large cam or two (#4/4.5 BD) comes in handy here. Stem/friction up the first 4/5 moves, then it eases up and becomes quite enjoyable! Great gear the whole way up. Definitely get a spot for the opening sequence, but a must-do in the amphitheater. Apr 30, 2016