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Dry Lightning
5.13b/c,
Sport,
Avg: 3.9 from 7
votes
FA: Chris Hirsch
Wisconsin
> Northwest
> Willow River SP
Access Issue: Open with restrictions:
Details
Climbing is allowed on weekdays when the park is open. However, from 15 May to 15 Sept, climbing is NOT allowed on Friday and Sunday after 12 noon.
Climbing is not allowed at all on Saturday.
Description
A long link-up route with some of the largest moves at Willow, starts on the 'Rejection and Mercy' crack then takes a hard left at the lip of the roof, bringing you to an exposed traverse across slopey ledges on the lip of this 12' horizontal roof. Then you join up with 'Cain', just in time for the bouldery redpoint crux of this route. Keep pushing through the remainder of 'Cain' to reach a perfect rest right below a set of anchors on another large roof. Either clip the anchors here or traverse left around the roof for two more bolts of climbing.
Protection
Bolts. 2 different anchors. Use long draws. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them.
[Hide Photo] Sean Ferrell on Dry Lightning
[Hide Photo] The pocket crux. You actually have to leave the willow jugs behind on this rig. Photo by Randy Baum.
[Hide Photo] Dry Lightning, approaching the potentially heart breaking "Couch Time" maneuver. Photo by Randy Baum.
[Hide Photo] Sean attacking the crux