Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches
FA: Scott Reynold, Max Kendall, Oct 1986
Page Views: 1,987 total · 10/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Sep 3, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Warning Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Cannot climb it from Dec 1 through Sep 30 due to Cliffchickens DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The guide books say a single set of friends for this... Thats possible, but its also possible to solo it.... just don't.

P1 = The first pitch is the business. Climb a soft OW section with no gear to your first placement... like 10- for 20 ft. Continue up a degrading crack that varies from fingers to armbars. A pin protects the widest section. It looks easy because the wall is featured, but the reality is that the rock is so soft you could skate off at anytime. The crux is transitioning into fingers from the bombay, though there are a number of hard sections. After about 170 ft. you reach a ledge with a pin and a horizontal that takes friends (3-3.5). You want a cordolette to string it together.
P2 = Climb out a bulge on handjams... its fun. The pitch is only about 25 feet to the anchor. With lots of slings you could run these two together, but there would be drag issues. Best to break it up.
P3 = from the anchor do a boulder problem, soft, to the summit, then down climb. It's about 15 feet.

1 big rap on two 60's puts you back at the base. The Arches Task Force replaced the anchors with ASCA 1/2 inchers and chain in September of 07.

Location Suggest change

North face of Devil Dog Spire in Arches National Park

Protection Suggest change

When I can get a couple solid pieces together in Entrada, I like to do so. That means a double rack might work, but we used up most of a triple.
Friends .75-3.5 X 3 each
4 - 6 two each
You need two 60's to get down