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Industrial Disease
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 4
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Routes in Devil Dog Spire
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Industrial Disease T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Scott Reynold, Max Kendall, Oct 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,987 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Lightner, Jr. on Sep 3, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions
Details
Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Access Issue: Cannot climb it from Dec 1 through Sep 30 due to Cliffchickens
Details
Also, be good to the Arches Rangers and they are good to us. No chalk... no new anchors, keep the base clean, park off the road, etc.
Description
The guide books say a single set of friends for this... Thats possible, but its also possible to solo it.... just don't.
P1 = The first pitch is the business. Climb a soft OW section with no gear to your first placement... like 10- for 20 ft. Continue up a degrading crack that varies from fingers to armbars. A pin protects the widest section. It looks easy because the wall is featured, but the reality is that the rock is so soft you could skate off at anytime. The crux is transitioning into fingers from the bombay, though there are a number of hard sections. After about 170 ft. you reach a ledge with a pin and a horizontal that takes friends (3-3.5). You want a cordolette to string it together.
P2 = Climb out a bulge on handjams... its fun. The pitch is only about 25 feet to the anchor. With lots of slings you could run these two together, but there would be drag issues. Best to break it up.
P3 = from the anchor do a boulder problem, soft, to the summit, then down climb. It's about 15 feet.
1 big rap on two 60's puts you back at the base. The Arches Task Force replaced the anchors with ASCA 1/2 inchers and chain in September of 07.
P1 = The first pitch is the business. Climb a soft OW section with no gear to your first placement... like 10- for 20 ft. Continue up a degrading crack that varies from fingers to armbars. A pin protects the widest section. It looks easy because the wall is featured, but the reality is that the rock is so soft you could skate off at anytime. The crux is transitioning into fingers from the bombay, though there are a number of hard sections. After about 170 ft. you reach a ledge with a pin and a horizontal that takes friends (3-3.5). You want a cordolette to string it together.
P2 = Climb out a bulge on handjams... its fun. The pitch is only about 25 feet to the anchor. With lots of slings you could run these two together, but there would be drag issues. Best to break it up.
P3 = from the anchor do a boulder problem, soft, to the summit, then down climb. It's about 15 feet.
1 big rap on two 60's puts you back at the base. The Arches Task Force replaced the anchors with ASCA 1/2 inchers and chain in September of 07.
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