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Routes in Tioga Wall
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Bag O' Tricks T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Bite the Bullet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Feel the Love S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Felix S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gold Dust S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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House of the Rising Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Iya S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Joint Effort S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Lizard King S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Master Cylinder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pennyroyal S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Poindexter S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Silver Bullet S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Stones Throw T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Swiss Chocolate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Through The Heart S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Throwin' the Finger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Tioga Tower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Torqued S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Bengston |
| Page Views: | 3,117 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Sep 3, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Its hard right off the deck. Don't let the bolts lure you to thinking its a sport-rig!
Pump it up to the roof and place a piece or two. Make another hard (trick) move into the scoop and over the roof (cool!). Interesting rock connects to another roof move which is surprisingly easy...The next move is harder than it looks.
Great climbing the whole way!!
Pump it up to the roof and place a piece or two. Make another hard (trick) move into the scoop and over the roof (cool!). Interesting rock connects to another roof move which is surprisingly easy...The next move is harder than it looks.
Great climbing the whole way!!
Protection
QD's for a couple of the bolts (first has faded red sling (back it up with a short draw)), Yellow - Red Alien size pro
A couple of years ago, this route received 1 more bolt (the now 2nd) and is now fully bolted with chain draws and no longer requires any gear. Although, one should note that due to the era of the FA's and the nature of the rock, and also the lengths of some of the fixed chain draws these are still not exactly modern "sport" bolted routes, but sure they are relatively "safe"; especially if you bring a draw or 2 to maybe clip directly into certain bolt hangers to minimize falls at some spots...
All the bolts on this route have chains BUT some of the carabiners may be aluminum. If you love this route and the Tioga Wall itself...please bring some steel biners down there and switch out the aluminum ones regardless if they are showing any wear.
THANKS!!!
- *** EDIT 7/2017 ***
A couple of years ago, this route received 1 more bolt (the now 2nd) and is now fully bolted with chain draws and no longer requires any gear. Although, one should note that due to the era of the FA's and the nature of the rock, and also the lengths of some of the fixed chain draws these are still not exactly modern "sport" bolted routes, but sure they are relatively "safe"; especially if you bring a draw or 2 to maybe clip directly into certain bolt hangers to minimize falls at some spots...
All the bolts on this route have chains BUT some of the carabiners may be aluminum. If you love this route and the Tioga Wall itself...please bring some steel biners down there and switch out the aluminum ones regardless if they are showing any wear.
THANKS!!!
3 Comments