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Routes in Tioga Wall

Bag O' Tricks T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Joint Effort S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Master Cylinder S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Poindexter S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Silver Bullet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Stones Throw T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Swiss Chocolate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Throwin' the Finger S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Torqued S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bengston
Page Views: 1,107 total, 9/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Sep 3, 2007 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Its hard right off the deck. Don't let the bolts lure you to thinking its a sport-rig!

Pump it up to the roof and place a piece or two. Make another hard (trick) move into the scoop and over the roof (cool!). Interesting rock connects to another roof move which is surprisingly easy...The next move is harder than it looks.

Great climbing the whole way!!

Protection

QD's for a couple of the bolts (first has faded red sling (back it up with a short draw)), Yellow - Red Alien size pro

  • *** EDIT 7/2017 ***

A couple of years ago, this route received 1 more bolt (the now 2nd) and is now fully bolted with chain draws and no longer requires any gear. Although, one should note that due to the era of the FA's and the nature of the rock, and also the lengths of some of the fixed chain draws these are still not exactly modern "sport" bolted routes, but sure they are relatively "safe"; especially if you bring a draw or 2 to maybe clip directly into certain bolt hangers to minimize falls at some spots...

All the bolts on this route have chains BUT some of the carabiners may be aluminum. If you love this route and the Tioga Wall itself...please bring some steel biners down there and switch out the aluminum ones regardless if they are showing any wear.

THANKS!!!

Photos

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John Robinson
Elk Grove, ca
John Robinson   Elk Grove, ca
Nick: This route is in the guide book Jun 17, 2014
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
Alex, where is this route located on the cliff? Aug 6, 2009