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Routes in j. The Yellow Wall and The Seasons

48 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
49 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Airy Aria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blistered Toe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bold-Ville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Hammer T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Carbs and Caffeine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dissonance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fillipina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Jinx T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ivan and the Saum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lady's Lament-Boldville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lito and the Swan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Los Tres Cabrones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost in Yellow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
No Man's Land T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nose, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oblique Twique T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prick, The T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Scary Area T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Shit Creek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring (P1), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sting, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Summer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Tiers of Fear T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Torture Garden T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tweak or Freak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ventre de Boeuf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wasp Stop T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wrath of the Lamb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A5 R
Yellow Wall, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad
FA: Ryan, Crowther and Nelson (FA, 1962) Reppy and Streibert (FFA, 1964)
Page Views: 3,838 total, 31/month
Shared By: JSH on Sep 2, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


103 Opinions

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Description

Excellent corner climbing with a well-protected crux. The lower part of the route can be tricky to protect well. While the crux is turning the rooflet midway through the corner, the moves at the top of the corner has its moments!

There are two more pitches to the cliff top, which up the route's overall rating to 5.10. Also, a variation to P1 climbs the face and arete to the right of the corner at 5.10X ("Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too", FA 1985, Franklin and Mills).

In early season or after a larger rainfall, the namesake water flow spouting from the base of the route can be several feet high and wide. You may be able to traverse in to the corner, but - maybe not.

Location

The obvious left-facing corner right of The Winter, and 50 feet right of Bold-Ville.

Descent: a bolted anchor, which serves as a common anchor for the Seasons, is on top of the block where the first pitch ends.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

artem Vasilyev
  5.9- PG13
artem Vasilyev  
  5.9- PG13
Fun, easy climbing up a corner. Might even be inspired to call this a 5.8+ or 5.9-. Don't blow the sequence down low or you're in for a likely 20 ft grounder. Bring brassies/c3's. 7 days ago
Systematic  
 
Roger -- I did mean below the roof, as written. In a recently posted photo you can see the placement (and the exact piece) used. Nov 10, 2016
rogerbenton  
 
There is definitely a bomber pod 3-4" ABOVE the roof that will swallow a #6 BD nut, but I don't know about this "under the roof" placement.
I could be missing something but I think Mrkb3 meant 'above' instead of 'below' the roof. Oct 26, 2016
Systematic  
 
Excellent pitch. I think a really good intro 9.

GEAR BETA On P1 there is a small astronut placement good for downward pull about 8' off the deck. There is also a pod that will fit bomber multi-directional protection ~3-4' under the roof. Jul 5, 2016
Alec Orenstein
Gallup, NM
 
Alec Orenstein   Gallup, NM
 
Definitely keep going through the old second pitch of The Winter (i.e., just keep going through the right-leaning left-facing (somewhat vague) corner above). There's only one move of 5.10 near the top, and you can easily traverse right beforehand to keep the entire thing at a very consistent, long 5.9. (See App.) Easy to do in one pitch.

Agreed with Dan that the (old) second pitch of The Spring that crosses left is an amazing pitch (although I think it's hard 10), but much better done as a continuation of The Winter in one pitch--you can even lower from the anchor with a 60 (barely). Jun 17, 2016
rogerbenton  
 
Stopped and stood there midway between the overhang and the ground for like 3 minutes dicking around trying to get a micro nut in. Finally gave up and just went to the overhang. After, we watched another party climb it, the leader stopped halfway to the overhang and stood there for like 3 minutes trying to dick in a micro nut before finally giving up and heading upwards... Great little pitch though.

Also- I submit that 'Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too" (which according to the grey Dick is the arete and RIGHT face just to the right of The Spring) is a touch tougher than 10+.
IMO it felt harder than the first pitch of The Winter (10d) and most of The Summer (11d). Nov 10, 2013
paulmadry  
 
Or go straight up and do 2nd pitch of winter as in the new guidebook. Spicy move on the face with good pro below it. Just trust that a hold will show up once you get on the face. Aug 17, 2011
Dan Flynn
MA
 
Dan Flynn   MA  
 
Do p2 -- following Grey Dick, it crosses left, over p1 of the winter. Use the second fixed gear anchor above p1 of the winter (not the one normally used for tr'ing the winter).

A wicked fun roof problem awaits at the top, 10b and more like pg-13. Save a .5 C4 for the crux. Oct 10, 2010